Changing Leaf Springs Tutorial

Null&Void

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Oct 31, 2003
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this is a pretty easy do it yourself job....but it IS time consuming and you'll need some tools, some grease, lots of beer and glacoma medication to make it thru.

the springs and front hubs really looked like shit and needed replacement. do yourself a favor and DONT try and recycle parts....i've learned my lesson the hard way from previous experience. for a two axle trailer, 4 jack stands and a 20 ton canister jack were required to remove the wheels and take the weight off the shitty old springs:




once i got the trailer up on jacks, the real fun began. remove the bearing buddy by tapping it horizontally with a hammer or a mallet. once the bearing buddy is off, remove the cotter pin and then remove the castle nut. the hub should slide off without a fight. with the serious corrosion, it was "easier" for me to cut the fasteners off with a grinder equipped with a metal cutting wheel. i cut the forward bolts and axel bolts off with the grinder and then cut the balancer in half so i had enuff room to use the sawzall to cutt the balancer bolts off. it is convenient to have a jack stand for the axel, or you can tie it to the frame. here's what it looks like with the hub off



i used a jack stand for the brakes as they were kinda heavy to try and tie to the frame



once i got all the gear off, i scaled the trailer to remove as much rust as possible and then painted that shit with zincpoxy rust resistant primer.

i then installed the load balancer, then the forward spring and finally the rear spring. next was the new front hub and i sprayed some rust resistant man juice on them to see if i can control the rust for a day or two:rofl:



40 beers, 2 gallons of sweat and 2 turds later, VOY-LAY!



time consuming, but doable.

next job: bunk pads:nutkick:


PS: Aros Trailers does NOT give BD discounts anymore:Beat_Them
 

Swazi

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Feb 26, 2003
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Nice job Vince, thanks for the tips. I came close to pulling the hubs to check the brakes today. Maybe tomorrow.
 

Mots

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Feb 5, 2003
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Very cool Vince, I really like the pictorial:D

Just did the same shit, but I whimped out and had Smokey do it:D
 

Mot's Sr.

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Feb 11, 2003
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Cool Vince, nice job. Had Freeway Trailer in Escondido do the same to mine, I also had to install a new coupler, my old one was causing to mahy problems.

Good job man. Nice tutorial and pictures.
 

vlionetti

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Jun 1, 2004
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If you buy a shit load of baring grease and coat the shit out of springs, hub and all the parts with a paint brush it will repel the salt water. I just did the same job on my fathers boat and it worked bitchen.
 

Null&Void

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Oct 31, 2003
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thanks for the props doods! yeah, doing these little projects was time consuming, but well worth it.

vilionetti- i ran out of bearing grease on the LAST hub, but i plan on putting a healthy amount on the springs and anything else that can rust.

i am also experimenting with salt away to see if it will protect against rust. rust test in progress!
 

Jeffrey

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Aug 22, 2004
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GO to dixie line and buy a can of Rust destroyer . Spray over rust or spray the new springs . Will never rust except were they pivot Awsume stuff $14.00 a can

DSC01472.JPG
 

Saluki

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May 10, 2003
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Nice job Vince!!!

We'll be calling you soon to do ours :D
 

Null&Void

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Oct 31, 2003
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Backlash said:
That's on my list of to-do's. Where did you buy your springs and hardware?
there's a place in el cajon called Aros trailers that i got all the stuff from. there's also SD Trailer in the college area.

jeff- i'm gonna give that rust destroyer a try! thanks for the tip.
 

smelllikepuddy

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Jul 28, 2005
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wow, awesome job this should be a sticky note! I hate rust, wish I had a pond I could back my boat in everytime I come home from salt.
 

barracudabreath

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Oct 11, 2004
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Sold my Mako 171 Special after 24 great years of fishing and boating trips...so, no boat
vlionetti said:
If you buy a shit load of baring grease and coat the shit out of springs, hub and all the parts with a paint brush it will repel the salt water. I just did the same job on my fathers boat and it worked bitchen.
A classic car restoration show on TV showed the guy installing new leaf springs on a corvette. When he was done he coated the springs with grease and then wrapped them with duct tape. He then recommended driving around with the springs wrapped for a few miles saying the flexing of the springs will cause the grease to enter between the leafs. I have also heard that a 50/50 mix of motor oil and kerosene will penetrate between the leafs and repell moisture, preventing rust.
 

Jeffrey

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Aug 22, 2004
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The less crap we dunk into the bay would be appreciated . Great for a street car but not for dunking in the bay . Id hate to see the suface film when you back that trailer in the water! Sorry for sounding like a jerk cause im not!
 

Jeffrey

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Aug 22, 2004
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Amazing the trailer is galvanized but all the hard ware is common steel maybe zinc coated which lasts for 1 year and rusts like a big dawg .You gotta be kidding me .Is it just me or would it not make sense to use stainless u brackets and bolts or dip the trailer when the u bolts are already on ?
 

Null&Void

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Oct 31, 2003
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Jeffrey said:
Amazing the trailer is galvanized but all the hard ware is common steel maybe zinc coated which lasts for 1 year and rusts like a big dawg .You gotta be kidding me .Is it just me or would it not make sense to use stainless u brackets and bolts or dip the trailer when the u bolts are already on ?

yeah, i dont really understand that shit either. they make one part galvanized and then all the fasteners are rust magnets that last one year. i dont get it
:(
 

Null&Void

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Oct 31, 2003
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ok. For those of you that axed me about this the trailer maintenance thread.....






BUMP:imdumb:
 

Duramax

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Dec 29, 2006
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since your doing all that , why didn't you convert it over to disc brake ?
so much better stopping power and alot easier to keep clean.
 

tuna taxi

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Jun 11, 2004
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I replaced my bunks a few months ago, it was way easier than I thought it would be, I got everything done at home and threw the new bunks in the boat. When I showed up at the ramp I went ahead and launched my boat, parked my truck, knocked the old bunks off and installed the new ones, whole thing took about 10 minutes.

The only mistake I made was that I didn't take a broom and dust pan to clean up my mess, I took more time picking up pieces of carpet, wood and rusted bolts than it did installing the new bunks.
 

Null&Void

How NOT to Fish
Oct 31, 2003
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I replaced my bunks a few months ago, it was way easier than I thought it would be, I got everything done at home and threw the new bunks in the boat. When I showed up at the ramp I went ahead and launched my boat, parked my truck, knocked the old bunks off and installed the new ones, whole thing took about 10 minutes.

The only mistake I made was that I didn't take a broom and dust pan to clean up my mess, I took more time picking up pieces of carpet, wood and rusted bolts than it did installing the new bunks.
Hey Jorge-
Did you just replace the bunks, or bunks and risers? I have a lot more replacement crap I need to get than I first thought and want to get an idea on how much bunks, risers, hangers and everything else will cost me...

by the time I'm done updating everything, the only thing left to replace will be the boat LOL
 

Blue Seas Fab

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Oct 21, 2003
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Get some corrosion X HD. One spray can is enough for your application. It goes on thick, not thin like regular corrosion X. It is thick and self heals. SPray it all down before you dunk it, and then every few months. It will not rust. The stuff is a miracle. If you cant find it. I can point you to it.