Build a 690j to fit a Trinidad20a/torium 20

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Newbie
Sep 30, 2009
22
14
Rancho Mirage, Ca
Name
Steve
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Hope to get an old Calstar BT690j from a friend that I will rebuild. Has a reel seat and hypalon that I will remove and wrap with 2 layers 1/16" cork up front and 1 layer under the reel and down the butt. What is anyones experience in building this blank for Trini 20a or Torium reel clamp? Best I can tell is it 'might" be a problem getting these reel clamps on it? Better choice of construction? Better fitting reel?
 

Mtnfshr

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Nov 20, 2011
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Chuck Mc
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If you can get longer screws, go with those and double the cork tape under it, unless a single layer just feels better to you. I believe Shimano sells longer screws/bolts for them. The last 690J I built was before the Trini's came out so I'm really not much help...
 
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bigreddog

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Jul 18, 2005
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Wallace Idaho, Antigua Guatemala, AZ
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Cliff
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I always go back to the Royal Star
Get rid of the cork tape under the reel altogether. Buy some medium wall adhesive lined heat shrink and shrink it in place where the reel will sit. I use a piece about 4.5" long. I do this for every saltwater rod I own, including my 130# gear. This material has enough grab and cushion that you will not need to overtighten your reel, and neither the reel or heat shrink will slip or twist. The heat shrink is extremely durable and will likely outlast the rod.

If you have a good foundation, you won't need an aftermarket clamp.

This will work on just about any rod and reel with a reel clamp with the possible exception of an Ulua.
 
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slash

Newbie
Sep 30, 2009
22
14
Rancho Mirage, Ca
Name
Steve
Boat
none
Couple good suggestions. Sounds like new Trini clamp will fit that blank with 1/16" cork? I REALLY don't want to use any aftermarket clamps. I have small hands and am trying to limit the need to reach. Don't want to add anymore hardware to annoy my fingers. I am seriously interested in bigreddog's idea. Clamping onto 1/16" cork seems great when the reel seat bites in a bit. But, unless it is cranked down hard (too hard) usually ends up squirming on a good fish. I think the solution is something with no give like that adhesive lined heat shrink. Can do 2 layers cork up front, one in back, leave a 4" or so gap between them. Then put the adhesive heat shrink down over the blank and lap it up over each edge of cork. Sounds perfect?
 
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bigreddog

Get off of my lawn
Jul 18, 2005
487
538
Wallace Idaho, Antigua Guatemala, AZ
Name
Cliff
Boat
I always go back to the Royal Star
Couple good suggestions. Sounds like new Trini clamp will fit that blank with 1/16" cork? I REALLY don't want to use any aftermarket clamps. I have small hands and am trying to limit the need to reach. Don't want to add anymore hardware to annoy my fingers. I am seriously interested in bigreddog's idea. Clamping onto 1/16" cork seems great when the reel seat bites in a bit. But, unless it is cranked down hard (too hard) usually ends up squirming on a good fish. I think the solution is something with no give like that adhesive lined heat shrink. Can do 2 layers cork up front, one in back, leave a 4" or so gap between them. Then put the adhesive heat shrink down over the blank and lap it up over each edge of cork. Sounds perfect?
That will work fine. Even better is to apply the heat shrink first, trim it on your rod lathe if you have one, then do your cork, cord, or Xflock. It will be a bit cleaner looking. Whenever I see an aftermarket rod clamp I wonder why anyone would do it-the heat shrink works better, is cheaper, nothing to lose or damage.
 
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x-man

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May 28, 2005
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Rick
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17' invader center console
I prefer having an actual reel seat instead of a clamp. I’ve had the reel spin on the handle too many times. I would remove the hypalon and replace with cork tape and the unflocked shrink tube. But that’s just me.
 
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