Bayrunner inyotuckee style

Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
So here is my build... I started one a while back on a old enterprise with a camper shell as a pilot house..... But never finished... That boat was underpowered and I felt it was better left sitting where it is now, hiding in my yard.
So here is the new one, that I will finish. My goal is to be on the water by the end of the month.
Long story short, a great friend couldn't let this boat sit anymore unused so now I have her... It's been sitting for 7 years.....
First things first. Let's get it home


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Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
So the catch, the boat /trailer registration hasn't been paid sense it got to the storage yard 7 years ago. So I was concerned to say the least. Before I started anything I headed to the DMV to see what it's gonna cost me..
After a 1 hour wait at the dmv, theres a problem... The boat isn't in the system. I know what that means. I'm free. 96$ later, I get the new stickers for the boat and trailer. Time to get to work!
250$ in new tires and I get this puppy under storage and start tearing it down.
A little back story, this boat was covered with a very high quality cover the whole time it was in storage. After we took the cover off, the only thing visible was rat crap....everywhere. So I was worried about the wiring.
Once home I clean out all the rat shit and old trash that was in the boat. Down to the basics




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Fuel tank is out in this pic. Looks like a 40 gallon. Needs to be cleaned







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Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
All new wood cut and carpet from Home Depot, glad those guys cut plywood for free, it made it really easy and my new pieces lined up pretty well. Work is slowing me down but wood should be sealed and ready for carpet by Thursday. My only thought right now is, do I want to have it re wired while it's all apart. This would be a big expense and take some time. The wiring seems fine, but it's been sitting. Everything works as far as ignition, bilge, bait pump and radio... Decisions decisions..


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2nakiller

High and Dry
Dec 19, 2005
81
102
58
702 / 805
Name
Rick
Boat
Melissa Marie (Bayrunner Baja 21)
Rewire, it's not that much work, and that way you can make a record of all connections, breakers switches, etc, you don't want to deal with electrical gremlins while on the water. complete rewire of my 21' Bayrunner took less than 2 days while I had it stripped down, you will have no regrets.
 
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Pipejumper

Member
Dec 17, 2014
31
13
45
Name
Larry
Boat
22' Alumaweld Intruder
Get your wire, shrink wrap, connectors etc. from geniunedealz (misspelled on purpose) and it will help with costs.

Wiring issues are a pain to deal with down the road.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
Little update. I wish I had more but it's hard to get motivated when the wind is blowing 30+ every day I'm off. Anyways, started tearing into the wiring today. Previous owner used splicing every where he could so I'm getting rid of a lot of the rat nest of wire that's in the console. Last coat of spar urathane went on the new wood today.

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I also used a 400 grit sanding block to get all the crap off the deck. My plan is to roll on a deck liner. Any suggestions? I was gonna look at what the auto part stores have for roll on bed liners. No marine store near me, I could always order some non skid or the total deck stuff.
 
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tuna sniffer

SD '63
Jun 16, 2005
578
365
La Mesa
Name
Mark
Boat
1 tin 1 glass
Nice score on the boat. Having done 3 Bayrunner restorations myself, I would recommend a couple of things.
Completely gut the boat down to the bare hull. Remove all transom penetrations that are not absolutely necessary. Weld or fill holes. There is usually corrosion/ pin holes that need to be filled. All foam, both poured and loose, should be removed. Trapped water is the biggest enemy of aluminum boats. After removing the decks and foam, pressure wash, degrease, and look for corrosion. This can be repaired by welding plates or using JB Weld. Replace loose foam floatation. It allows the water to drain.

Avoid using carpet. It will trap dirt, blood, etc. Use marine grade vinyl flooring for the deck and gunwales. I used this.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Dorsett-Marine-Vinyl-Floor/1316443.uts?searchPath=/browse.cmd?categoryId=734095080&CQ_search=marine+vinyl+floor

When you get around to wiring the boat, use Blue sea systems busses to ground everything and connect those ground to the battery, never to the hull. Use this switch panel and fuse block and you will be golden.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/4307/WeatherDeck_12V_DC_Waterproof_Switch_Panel_-_6_Position

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5025/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover

Use bare butt connectors/terminals and cover with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing on all connections

Usually the steering cable is frozen. While you can often work it free and lube it, it's usually better to just replace the cable or entire system for long term trouble free care.

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/products/mechanical-steering/nfb-4-2-rotary-steering/

If you are going to do a bait system, I recommend installing a Marelon thruhull with bronze valve. You may want to install a 2nd thruhull for a washdown pump.

Good luck with the build. The more thought and planning you put into it, the more troublefree service you get in return.
 
Last edited:

Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
Nice score on the boat. Having done 3 Bayrunner restorations myself, I would recommend a couple of things.
Completely gut the boat down to the bare hull. Remove all transom penetrations that are not absolutely necessary. Weld or fill holes. There is usually corrosion/ pin holes that need to be filled. All foam, both poured and loose, should be removed. Trapped water is the biggest enemy of aluminum boats. After removing the decks and foam, pressure wash, degrease, and look for corrosion. This can be repaired by welding plates or using JB Weld. Replace loose foam floatation. It allows the water to drain.

Avoid using carpet. It will trap dirt, blood, etc. Use marine grade vinyl flooring for the deck and gunwales. I used this.
http://www.cabelas.com/product/Dorsett-Marine-Vinyl-Floor/1316443.uts?searchPath=/browse.cmd?categoryId=734095080&CQ_search=marine+vinyl+floor

When you get around to wiring the boat, use Blue sea systems busses to ground everything and connect those ground to the battery, never to the hull. Use this switch panel and fuse block and you will be golden.
https://www.bluesea.com/products/4307/WeatherDeck_12V_DC_Waterproof_Switch_Panel_-_6_Position

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5025/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover

Use bare butt connectors/terminals and cover with adhesive lined heat shrink tubing on all connections

Usually the steering cable is frozen. While you can often work it free and lube it, it's usually better to just replace the cable or entire system for long term trouble free care.

http://www.seastarsolutions.com/products/mechanical-steering/nfb-4-2-rotary-steering/

If you are going to do a bait system, I recommend installing a Marelon thruhull with bronze valve. You may want to install a 2nd thruhull for a washdown pump.

Good luck with the build. The more thought and planning you put into it, the more troublefree service you get in return.
Thanks mark for the advise. I was planning on using a fuse block and now I know which one to get. There is a bait tank and pump system already installed. I need to re plumb it and probably replace the pump. It looks like it had a pickup on the bottom of the hull near the transom. There is a bronze valve coming out of the deck up to the bait tank. I can take pictures later.
 

Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
Been a while sense I posted an update, life seems to take a busy turn when you have a project. Anyways, I ordered all new marine grade wiring, heat shrink connections, blue seas switch block and fuse box. Got the decks out and patched/painted. I hate California btw... It's apparently impossible to fine oil based paint here. Home Depot had gloss grey in tiny little containers and they wouldn't mix anything that is oil based. So aggravating. I opted for a kills deck sealant/paint that turned out awesome. It has grip to it and covered up small cracks very nicely. I'm sure it's not exactly what everyone else uses but I'm happy with the results.
There were multiple broken welds throughout the hull that we ground out and re welded. After that I fit up my new wood siding and guess what, it doesn't line up right.... Trials and tribulations of a first time builder I guess. So fabrication with a skill saw continues to be a pain in the butt. It's starting to go together now.

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I'll post up more pics tomorrow of the finished decks, once I'm done with the cut to fit boards they will be carpeted and installed. I have three full days open to be able to continue with the boat. Still no end in sight but feel relieved I got all my weld repairs done. Helps out when one of the homies is a certified welder..mark thanks for the advice on the blue seas switch and fuse box, there stuff is legit.
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Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
Decks staged, got the front hatch installed today and carpeted.
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bman440440

I am the one who knocks!!!
Sep 8, 2010
2,763
1,199
San Diego 92117
Name
B-MAN
Boat
Heisenberg(20' Maxum), Sip N' Slide (33' 2 deck w/slide) Ships & Giggles (32' double deck pontoon)
Been a while sense I posted an update, life seems to take a busy turn when you have a project. Anyways, I ordered all new marine grade wiring, heat shrink connections, blue seas switch block and fuse box. Got the decks out and patched/painted. I hate California btw... It's apparently impossible to fine oil based paint here. Home Depot had gloss grey in tiny little containers and they wouldn't mix anything that is oil based. So aggravating. I opted for a kills deck sealant/paint that turned out awesome. It has grip to it and covered up small cracks very nicely. I'm sure it's not exactly what everyone else uses but I'm happy with the results.
what version of the kilz did you use on your deck?
 
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tuna sniffer

SD '63
Jun 16, 2005
578
365
La Mesa
Name
Mark
Boat
1 tin 1 glass
Another thing I did on my BR20 Open was to cut the aft deck piece in two at the last support. That left about a 14" deck section that was easily removable without removing the whole rear deck. It will give you easy access to the bilge without removing a huge section of deck. I didn't even screw down the rear piece. Trust me on this one.

IMG_0490.JPG IMG_0494.JPG
 
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Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
Mark I'm with you on this Idea, I keep looking at that aft piece and keep trying to think of something I can do to make accessing the pumps and filters more accessible however, the final layout of this boat has, if I could guess, a 40 gallon fuel tank that goes on that aft deck and then is covered by a piece of ply wood that creates a fishing platform that is flush to the siding. So imagine the pic you sent me, minus the leaning post and add a fuel tank where your post is. I'm trying to figure out what to do to get away from that aft deck space and fuel tank, because it creates a dilemma to work on pretty much anything. Id have to remove the fuel tank to get to anything
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Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
I also made a mistake with the fuse block I purchased, it came with a positive and negative buss so now, I'm gonna have to run the positive buss from the fuse block to the switches, then to the components. I ordered the wrong fuse block that's all, but I can make it work.
 

Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
what version of the kilz did you use on your deck?
B man I used the kills overarmor, so far I like it but applying it is like laying down thin concrete lol.
image.jpg

I would have just used oil based paint but... Here in ca, it's a magic paint
 
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Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
I'm at a crossroads right now, I know I want a T-top and now I'm at the point in my build where I can push on and finish or purchase a t top. I was looking at striker, the only thing I don't like is how they mount to the deck. If I were to pout one on my boat is get backing plates and reinforce it from under the deck. So, do I finish my build minus a t top, or fork out the 1200 bucks and get the t top and be done with it... Meanwhile, just spent some coin on a simrad and radio.. Choices choices
 

Sushi King

SUSHI KING
May 31, 2008
389
82
novato,ca,usa
Name
Bob
Boat
18 bayrunner sushi king
Nice job on the rebuild I just got done doing new steering cable - helm -fuel filters- pump - lines - plugs on mine this week one thing about a T top is it can make the boat tippy and mess up your casting just a thought.
 

Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
Nice job on the rebuild I just got done doing new steering cable - helm -fuel filters- pump - lines - plugs on mine this week one thing about a T top is it can make the boat tippy and mess up your casting just a thought.
Good point, I just worry about being out in the sun all day haha. Those striker t tops seem to be pretty light. Maybe I should just get a Bimini
 

Sushi King

SUSHI KING
May 31, 2008
389
82
novato,ca,usa
Name
Bob
Boat
18 bayrunner sushi king
I had a Bimini and hated it with the straps - arms hard to fish around also broke 3 rods one day getting boat ready at the ramp I was in front of console and flipped the closed Bimini back towards the motor and snapped 3 of 4 rods I had laying down on splash well :mad: that was last time I used it! I really wanted a T top with rocket launchers I just felt it make a small boat smaller so I just wear a hat and lots of sunscreen.
 
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tuna sniffer

SD '63
Jun 16, 2005
578
365
La Mesa
Name
Mark
Boat
1 tin 1 glass
I think that fuel tank has no business being back there. Too much weight aft means way harder to plane. Also, def. need access to that area, and it is prime fishing space. I got an aluminum tank, made a seat top, and placed it just fwd of the console. 25 gal was plenty of fuel.

IMG_0495.JPG
 

Dudley613

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 20, 2015
600
635
33
Inyotuckee CA
Name
Chris
Boat
21' Cole superhawk "Beep Beep", 20' bayrunner open
I think that fuel tank has no business being back there. Too much weight aft means way harder to plane. Also, def. need access to that area, and it is prime fishing space. I got an aluminum tank, made a seat top, and placed it just fwd of the console. 25 gal was plenty of fuel.

View attachment 833822
That's a really good idea, I have another boat that I may be able to rob the fule tank from. Thanks again mark for the insight
 

tuna sniffer

SD '63
Jun 16, 2005
578
365
La Mesa
Name
Mark
Boat
1 tin 1 glass
Good point, I just worry about being out in the sun all day haha. Those striker t tops seem to be pretty light. Maybe I should just get a Bimini
I like t tops for rod storage, antenna mounts and shade. It does take some of your jigcasting space away though. I thru bolted mine to the deck. Screws, even beefy ones, are gonna get shaken loose.
 
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