Battery configuration opinions

[sickcat]

There are many ways to do it right. It depends on how you use the boat and on smaller boat available space.

LiPos are a great way to save space and weight. Downsides are cost and the fact that depending on the specific battery/BMS they won't run the engine. They will give some amps to jump start an engine but not work as a dedicated cranking battery. Advantage to 6v FLA batteries in series is that they are a true deep cycle and will live longer with deep discharge cycles.

A dedicated house bank avoids voltage drop to electronics when cranking the engine and of course the safety of not drawing from the cranking battery when the engine is off.

Off to work - I'll add a few other points later.

 

[kwik_wurk]

It’s not clear what your fishing/boating needs are, relative to electrical loads and battery usage.

At a minimum seems like you need a ACR.

Usage examples that could really change needs and loads:

1) Trailer boat, that salmon fishes (90%), 10% tuna/hali whatever.
2) Slipped boat with no shore power, 50% salmon, 10% tuna, 40% whatever boating.
3) Slipped boat, 50% Pocket/daytime cruising (periods on the hook), 50% equal fishing off all types.

Usage 1, Little loading while the engines are both off (even at idle). (So what if you have to keep an engine running while on a bait stop.) - It seems here an ACR may be all that is needed (no house battery), maybe change battery switch or wiring.

Usage 2, House battery is warranted, especially if auto-pilot or similar drawing while trolling, AND the bildge pumps, and fishing usage offshore. - So new battery, ACR(s), switches, etc.

Usage 3, House battery is definitely needed (plus ACR/switches), and details to sizing given loading. Maybe even fancy charger/inverter. 6V batteries might work, but depends on loads and space.

And as others have stated, lot of different ways to solve the wiring configs.

Side note: My twin setup has TWO BEP Digital Voltage Sensitive Relays (DVSRs, akin to ACR). Such that running either single engine charges the house and opposing battery (salmon trolling). Seems this is probably the single most important aspect if you use one engine the majority of the time. —. Also House voltage is a key parameter that is displayed on EVERY screen on my MFD. It’s really nice/easy to see, and seeing the alternators incremental voltages vs RPM. (The engine Voltages are on the Yami display(s).)

 

[sickcat]

It’s not clear what your fishing/boating needs are, relative to electrical loads and battery usage.

At a minimum seems like you need a ACR.

Usage examples that could really change needs and loads:

1) Trailer boat, that salmon fishes (90%), 10% tuna/hali whatever.
2) Slipped boat with no shore power, 50% salmon, 10% tuna, 40% whatever boating.
3) Slipped boat, 50% Pocket/daytime cruising (periods on the hook), 50% equal fishing off all types.

Usage 1, Little loading while the engines are both off (even at idle). (So what if you have to keep an engine running while on a bait stop.) - It seems here an ACR may be all that is needed (no house battery), maybe change battery switch or wiring.

Usage 2, House battery is warranted, especially if auto-pilot or similar drawing while trolling, AND the bildge pumps, and fishing usage offshore. - So new battery, ACR(s), switches, etc.

Usage 3, House battery is definitely needed (plus ACR/switches), and details to sizing given loading. Maybe even fancy charger/inverter. 6V batteries might work, but depends on loads and space.

And as others have stated, lot of different ways to solve the wiring configs.

Side note: My twin setup has TWO BEP Digital Voltage Sensitive Relays (DVSRs, akin to ACR). Such that running either single engine charges the house and opposing battery (salmon trolling). Seems this is probably the single most important aspect if you use one engine the majority of the time. —. Also House voltage is a key parameter that is displayed on EVERY screen on my MFD. It’s really nice/easy to see, and seeing the alternators incremental voltages vs RPM. (The engine Voltages are on the Yami display(s).)

Well said and well covered!

 

[Alysium]

At a minimum seems like you need a ACR.

Ok. I’ll bite. Why???

Right now he has the capability to charge 4 separate batteries independently.

 

[sickcat]

Ok. I’ll bite. Why???

Right now he has the capability to charge 4 separate batteries independently.

Yes, as long as your running both engines. I slow troll live bait and both engines at idle is too fast. Sure I could switch back and forth but I like everything getting charged (if even only a little) no matter which engine is running.

Second thing is redundancy if I lose an engine or an alternator and have to travel hours to get back to the dock.

 

[The Peddler]

Yamaha has an auxiliary. If you have twin Yamahas I’d forget the ACR.

I never knew! Would 2013-era F150’s have this?

 

[TooManyHobbies]

I never knew! Would 2013-era F150’s have this?

I have yet to dig into my 2005's, but I found threads referencing them on OX66 motors..

 

[Alysium]

I never knew! Would 2013-era F150’s have this?

From what I can find, I think they started doing this ~2003. 150 and larger. So yes.

 

[Alysium]

@Socket985 posted about this a few years ago. Not sure how to copy that post so I’ll bump it.

 

[kwik_wurk]

Yes Yami’s do have this. quite nice. Only drawback was splitting the output from the engine and having to install another fuse. Not really a big deal, just half dozen one way or another.

Went down this path and found pulling the new aux cable thru the fittings from the cowling was an effort, plus needed an additional fuse on the aux cable. Ended up installing the DVSRs (ACR); as it was much easier. - Your setup is a little different, probably easier.

(And I can’t remember the aux P/N’s; but had them identified on SIM Yamaha.)

 

[Alysium]

Noco gen 2 has been working well for me.