Back to the transducer.....

Discussion in 'Washington Fishing Reports' started by fishing fanatic, Nov 5, 2018.

  1. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
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    jason
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    So I’ve chosen Garmin. Going with the 1242 xsv and a rear 1042. 18xhd radar. And then the transducer.... I’m leaning towards a daring block with a ss260 but am looking for input. Anyone have one of these and if not does anyone have a daring block 1kw transducer they like?
    The only thing I’m not in love with about this one is it’s limited to 50/200khz and has a narrow cone. Any thoughts are appreciated.
     
  2. G-Spot

    G-Spot Captain

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    John
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    SS270W is a great option.... had one and it was great.... the 258 has a better shallow cone than the 260..... We just don’t fish the depth to need the narrow cone for the 260.

    There’s options for creating a nice pocket in the bottom of your boat rather than the fair block. Glacier Bay actually builds in a pocket and there are some guys who sell a fiberglass pocket that fits the 260, 258, or 270 (all the same size houseing).
     
  3. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

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    John, I appreciate the reply. My thought about the daring block is to keep the ducer in cleaner water. If I were to do a pocket I would likely just do a pitched thru hull(which I’m not totally against) . I know that some guys do a half pocket with the daring block but that seems a bit counterproductive to me but I’m really just asking for opinions and experiences as I’m certainly no expert
     
  4. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

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    *faring
     
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  5. ericwa285

    ericwa285 Well-Known "Member"

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    Eric
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    Why not a tilted elment thru Hull?
    Forget the fairing block.
     
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  6. goatram

    goatram Notable Member Gate Keeper to the Great Northwest

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    grrrrrrrr
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    SS270W like John Said. Think CHIRP. Yes the 260 will work but you want the optimal system. Get a hold of Gil Travis and talk to him. @Semperfifishing
     
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  7. G-Spot

    G-Spot Captain

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    Honestly, the fairing block versus the pocket go pocket all the way... Ask Tb2short..... his boat has the pocket I glasses in... full speed full picture.... My current boat had the fairing block when I bought it and I have not change it... the fairing block creates bubbles and I don’t think it helps... I don’t have a s good of a read as I did with the pocket.... as long as it is submerged and not slapping in too rough of water you will get good soundings....
     
  8. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
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    Eric, are you happy with your tilted element thru hull? If so what model did you use?
    John, a pocket in an aluminum boat seems a bit more interesting than the fiberglass. Are you saying to pocket the fairing block and only leave little bit hanging down?
     
  9. G-Spot

    G-Spot Captain

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    Sorry, didn’t understand what boat it was going in... an aluminum boat adds a different element and I would probably stick the a fairing block and make sure the entire transducer is isolated from the aluminum.... I have seen where aluminum boat build a “cut out” basically a box I the bottom of the boat to install the transducer. The water slides right past, less drag, easier for trailering, less disturbance in the water.....
     
  10. ericwa285

    ericwa285 Well-Known "Member"

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    Jason,
    I faced the same delima on my build and originally was going to use a fairing block but was worried about the giant opendige hanging down under the boat and problems with trailer bunks and rollers in the end I went with two 1k ss175s a medium and a high wide, driven by garmin couldn't be happier they perform very well.
    Cutting two four inch holes in the bottom of the boat was a little unnerving to say the least !
     
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  11. G-Spot

    G-Spot Captain

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    John
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    Here’s a short thread from tht where a guy built a pocket for his aluminum....

    https://www.thehulltruth.com/marine...37-transducer-installation-aluminim-hull.html

    I’ve read about larger steel and aluminum boats donwhat they call tank mounted transducer. If you can find a polyurethane transducer without the housing you can install in this recess built into the bottom of your boat. I have one in the shop, I’ll take a couple pictures... the bronze, or stainless part of a 260, 270W, etc is just a housing around the ducer.

    Narrow down the type of elements and beam angle and then call airmar and inquire about a matching transducer without the housing. They probably have one...
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2018
  12. G-Spot

    G-Spot Captain

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    This is a transducer made for tank mounting. The theory is if you cut a box in the bottom of you boat say 14” long 6” wide and 3”-4” deep you can mount transducer up in there and it will get a good picture because it’s face is in the water. If you know you won’t change transducer you could custom fit the transducer. The larger box allows you flexibility.

    I think if you keep it near the back where it is always submerged you’d keep a good picture even at speed.

    4C281C6D-5775-4E95-ABA4-0C9E9245773E.jpeg 85D5CAC3-A7C6-4897-97DA-B3814F4643EA.jpeg 871EFD06-892B-44E0-9EC9-60286FFB5B72.jpeg
     
  13. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

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    John, that would be an awesome option if I had the room. I appreciate the responses
     
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  14. richardp

    richardp I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
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    Richard
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    +2 on the 175HW the stainless steel has an isolator bushing and you should have no problem on the aluminum hull. Adding a 175M probably gives you everything you need target detection and detail for as deep as you fish. Jason if you already bought the single-channel chirp units (1242 & 1042) if you want to run something like Eric has with 2 of them you would have to plug each transducer into each head unit. If you are going to drop almost $3k on 2 transducers you might as well upgrade to a dual channel head unit so both can plug into one and then you can mirror or whatever you want on the 2nd unit. Like Goat said the 260 is non-chirp you will want a chirp transducer.

    If you end up being dead set on a fairing block model the 275LHW would be the tits too but not sure they have in SS, and still would need a headunit that will power dual channel chirp
     
  15. 53driver

    53driver Member

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    Dave/Olex
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    SS270 is discontinued.

    The _275 LHW, Low High Wide Chirp is available, Chest Mount (CM), or Bronze Thru hull (B), or Transom mount (TM) been trying to get a SS version built, It's close, anyone need 50 each?

    275 version only works with a 1042,1242 when connected to a GSD25 OR 26

    275 IS a killer choice. It really does work. AIRMARWideChirpModels.png
     
  16. fishing fanatic

    fishing fanatic Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
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    jason
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    I met with Eric yesterday.(what a great guy and what a sweet boat) after he and I meeting and seeing his set up and doing more reading I think I’m going to go the (2) seoetate through hulls and upgrade to the xsv units.(dual channel units)
    Btw Richard, those type of comments are how I think as well but are what cause the wife to want to remove my nuts!
     
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  17. fishbadger

    fishbadger Member

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    fishbadger
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    Running that B175HW with an .xsv MFD and loving it.

    fb
     
  18. ericwa285

    ericwa285 Well-Known "Member"

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    Eric
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    Jason it was great to meet you in person, you'll be happier with that set up and trust me being nueterd is worth it, it only stings for awhile you'll forget all about it once the boat is in the water and you are drifting and dreaming.
     
    Last edited: Nov 7, 2018
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  19. ericwa285

    ericwa285 Well-Known "Member"

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    Eric
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    Here's a couple shots of a ss175m last winter

    18978.jpeg 18975.jpeg
     
  20. richardp

    richardp I've posted enough I should edit this section

    Location:
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    Good man on the upgrade, always happy to help other people spend more money.

    I think they have a surgery now to replace nuts.....seriously
     

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