Attaching Shimano Flat Fall Jig

RPCROWE

Newbie
Jun 22, 2014
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Richard P. Crowe
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Apparently there are two ways to attach a flat fall jig to your line:

1. Tying the line directly to the jig
2. Running the line through both eyes of the jig and then tying the hook (single or treble) to the line

My question is: when attaching the jig directly to the jig, should I use a loop knot or a knot that cinches down to the eye such as the Palomar knot or improved clinch knot?

What about using a non-swivel snap like the MacMahon or Duo Lock?
 

tunalover69*

tunalover69*
May 24, 2007
205
26
18
gold beach oregon
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dave
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21 triumph cc
tie 2 assist hooks to a solid ring tie that set up to ur main line attach the jig to the solid ring using a split ring....u get more action in the jig and less foul up..do not connect a treble hook to the bottom of the jig happy catching.
 

HoxFish

Family Crest - My Lure is True
Jan 17, 2007
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A daydream about fish
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Aaron
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Moo
Pic is sick. Butterfly style rigging and looks like straight braid, no mono or fluoro.
 
Feb 7, 2010
858
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Minneapolis/Gilroy/Buena Vista
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J. David LeCompte
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20' Triton
Not only does this setup impart great action and hookup ratio, you can change jigs without retying. Leave the snaps at home, bring the split-ring pliers, and cinch that knot tight to the solid ring.

One note about the pic, I like to have a hook on each side of the split-ring (and, hence, the lure) -- I feel this increases my chances of metal meeting meat. Anyone have any thoughts, pro or con? Saludos! -- d
 
Feb 7, 2010
858
417
63
Minneapolis/Gilroy/Buena Vista
Name
J. David LeCompte
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20' Triton
Damnit fellas, I love fishing. I love the game, the mystery, the preferences and prejudices. I love that, no matter how much we know, or don't, we advent. Invention and adventure. We resort to child-like ambition and possibility. Every day is new. A solid-ring ball bearing swivel, to a split ring, to a solid ring, to a jig, is too much terminal for me. And yet I prefer two hooks. I'm often wrong, which I love. Every day is new. I'm happy to make mistakes. And learn. As long as I'm on the water. Saludos, suerte, y gracias.
 

Cast Gold

hss AHHHH...hss AHHHH....
Jul 1, 2005
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Kris
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Mike's
Get a good split ring plier, some split rings, some solid rings, and you can experiment very easily and tie whatever knot you want to the solid ring.
 
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johndtuttle

Angler/Client
Mar 20, 2008
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john
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not crazy enough yet
Hey Phats,

There is method to the madness that Brice (Red34) has posted and every piece of terminal tackle in that rig has been thought about and chosen for good reason.



1. The swivel prevents any twist that those jigging with spinning may get and also help prevent hooks from twisting out from leverage from the jig. It also removes the mainline knot from any direct contact with anything else on the same attachment point reducing abrasion of the knot when jigging.

The erratic jigging motion can otherwise produce a lot of abrasions and knot failures.

Swivel is good. :)

2. The split ring allows fast and easy changing of the jig for lighter/heavier or colors etc. It also provides a convenient way to get a solid ring on there. This is important when using heavy leader like one should. 60# is ultralight, 100# or more is commonly used for abrasion and bite resistance and fluoro for the same reasons. When using such heavy leader a split ring makes it easy and fast to change lures (when you have good split ring pliers).

This is also useful when fishing shorty leaders outside the guides (ie popping) this way you avoid having to retie your braid to leader knot so often jigging and popping as you use up a lot of leader retying to the lures when you change them. The split ring means I am far more likely to change it up when I should to improve my presentation for finicky fish.

3. The solid ring is so that, again, the cord from the assist hooks is separate from anything that could provide abrasion and wear on them from the erratic action fishing the jigs. This is done for reliability of the assist cord. Assist hooks can also be put on the top eye of the jig themselves, but then they again get abraded more and may fail with a trophy.

So, when you look at what Bryce posted there is sound reasoning for everything there, derived by guys that jig and pop exclusively, and wanted a system for all day fishing convenience and reliability on BIG fish.

You can also tie directly to the jig and just loop the assist hook to the top eye if you want simplicity...:).

Which is perfectly fine but less convenient to change lures....the system that is shown also allows you to store all of your jigs or poppers without hooks and just use the split ring method to attach them all quickly once a jig or popper is chosen. This is a much more efficient and safer way to store all your stuff and makes fishing heavy leader easier. And no more rats nest of jigs and hooks in the box.

This way I have one box of all hardware (extra assist hooks/trebles, swivels and rings) and then boxes of jigs and poppers completely separate with no hooks that makes them easier and safer to store and they don't beat each other up.


best
 
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Feb 7, 2010
858
417
63
Minneapolis/Gilroy/Buena Vista
Name
J. David LeCompte
Boat
20' Triton
John, thanks for the always awesome and thorough response! I know that Brice and OTI are legit when it comes to gear and knowledge. I didn't intend to contradict anyone's previous posts, including my own. I was simply caught up in the moment of innocence and joy we all (hopefully) still feel at first light. At making bait. At opportunity. At home, on the water.

And yes, at (admitted) ignorance, and the opportunity to learn (pick your brain!). SO:

I continue to be a BB swivel freak (it began in my freshwater days!) -- do you think there's a big difference between those and barrels? Also, is jigging with casting gear (sans swivel) much better/different than spinning gear? (You seem to suggest spinning gear as specifically susceptible to twist?)

I've become used to noticing and eliminating line-twist (even when using a swivel). On the plus side, this ensures I'm freshly re-tied each day. (For the record, my current jig rig is similar to Aaron's pic -- I tie to a solid ring, to a split ring with two assist-hooks, to a ring in the jig.) Do you guys think this presents dangerous friction/direct contact to the knot when hooked up?

Lastly, I think I mentioned that I eschew the swivel so there's less suspicious tackle for the fish to see. Brice, is this why you cut off one of the assist hooks? I realize that the jig bite is fairly "reactionary," but have seen great differences in success on the same boat based on leader gauge, jig type, retrieve, etc.. For reference, I do most of my jigging in Los Cabos/E. Cape, but hope to target Dogtooth in S. Fiji late Jan.. So, if you have any special intel there, please let me know!

I know that's a lot of ramble. As mentioned, I (and many others) appreciate, and can only gain, from any/all responses, John, Brice, et.al.. Saludos, amigos -- dLc
 
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cortezpirasea

Pangero
Feb 23, 2012
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Russell
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21 ft panga Sea Moan/17 ft gregor Pirasea II
Spooky fish pic...
 

johndtuttle

Angler/Client
Mar 20, 2008
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john
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not crazy enough yet
John, thanks for the always awesome and thorough response! I know that Brice and OTI are legit when it comes to gear and knowledge. I didn't intend to contradict anyone's previous posts, including my own. I was simply caught up in the moment of innocence and joy we all (hopefully) still feel at first light. At making bait. At opportunity. At home, on the water.

And yes, at (admitted) ignorance, and the opportunity to learn (pick your brain!). SO:

I continue to be a BB swivel freak (it began in my freshwater days!) -- do you think there's a big difference between those and barrels? Also, is jigging with casting gear (sans swivel) much better/different than spinning gear? (You seem to suggest spinning gear as specifically susceptible to twist?)

I've become used to noticing and eliminating line-twist (even when using a swivel). On the plus side, this ensures I'm freshly re-tied each day. (For the record, my current jig rig is similar to Aaron's pic -- I tie to a solid ring, to a split ring with two assist-hooks, to a ring in the jig.) Do you guys think this presents dangerous friction/direct contact to the knot when hooked up?

Lastly, I think I mentioned that I eschew the swivel so there's less suspicious tackle for the fish to see. Brice, is this why you cut off one of the assist hooks? I realize that the jig bite is fairly "reactionary," but have seen great differences in success on the same boat based on leader gauge, jig type, retrieve, etc.. For reference, I do most of my jigging in Los Cabos/E. Cape, but hope to target Dogtooth in S. Fiji late Jan.. So, if you have any special intel there, please let me know!

I know that's a lot of ramble. As mentioned, I (and many others) appreciate, and can only gain, from any/all responses, John, Brice, et.al.. Saludos, amigos -- dLc
1. I jig with both conventional and spinning to break up the effort (switching arms). Spinning gear makes playing with the action of the jig easier and gets the jig deep faster (no spool spinning during the drop). But conventional makes the catching easier.

2. As far as swivels go barrel v. bb there is not much practical difference, in my experience.

3. The "Aaron" method exposes mostly the assist cord to abrasion. If you jig often you will start to notice wear on the cords from the split ring as the jig bounces. And fish are lost due to breakage with that set up. Not as healthy for the main line knot either (but obviously will catch a fish :) ).

4. One hook is all you need. 2 hooks means one for the fish and one for you. Too dangerous and the second is not needed. Lotsa guys get stuck with the extra hook.

5. Never worry about stealth with iron or poppers and arguably, stick baits too. It is probably just producing rattles that the fish like. So it is helping the bite, not hurting. Its a reaction bite, fish don't shy away from the hardware.


Anyways, we are talking about "ideal" connection methods but it is not a requirement to get bit and catch a fish. It is how I would do it when the fishing is serious biz (PB hunting or big fish etc) but you could just tie straight to the jig with both mainline and assist hook and catch a lot of fish...and you just start burning through assist cord and have to retie them and have to retie to change jigs etc etc a little less convenient for all day fishing . So there is method to the madness :).


best
 
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vegasandre

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 20, 2010
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Andre
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Any Boat that I can go on
Hey Phats,

There is method to the madness that Red34 has posted.

1. The swivel prevents any twist that those jigging with spinning may get and also help prevent hooks from twisting out. It also removes the knot from any direct contact with anything else on the same attachment point preventing abrasion of the knot when jigging.

The erratic jigging motion can otherwise produce a lot of abrasions and knot failures.

Swivel is good. :)

2. The split ring allows fast and easy changing of the jig for lighter/heavier or colors etc. It also provides a convenient way to get a solid ring on there. This is important when using heavy leader like one should. 60# is ultralight, 100# or more is commonly used for abrasion and bite resistance and fluoro for the same reasons. When using such heavy leader a split ring makes it easy and fast to change lures (when you have good split ring pliers).

This is also useful when fishing shorty leaders outside the guides (ie popping) this way you also avoid having to retie your braid to leader knot so often.

3. The solid ring is so that, again, the cord from the assist hooks is separate from any thing that could provide abrasion and wear to them from the erratic action fishing the jigs. This is done for reliability. They can also be put on the jig themselves, but then they get abraded more and may fail with a trophy.

So, when you look at what Bryce posted there is sound reasoning for everything there derived by guys that jig and pop exclusively for all day fishing convenience and reliability on BIG fish. You can also tie directly to the jig and just loop the assist hook to the top eye.

Which is perfectly fine but less convenient and reliable....the system that was shown also allows you to store all of your jigs without hooks and just use the split ring method to attach them all quickly once a jig is chosen. This is a much more efficient and safer way to store all your stuff and makes fishing heavy leader easier.

This way I have one box of all hardware (extra assist hooks, swivels and rings) and then boxes of jigs and poppers completely separate with no hooks that makes them easier and safer to store.


best

Great explanation John. They should actually sticky this and OTI's pic to the top of the board. many of the guys don't really know how to properly rig "butterfly" or flat fall type jigs for greatest success. This explains it.
Imagine having this conversation 10 years ago on this site . we have come a long way.
 

DannyNoonan

Smarter than I look...
Apr 17, 2007
962
762
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Jim
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Somebody Else's
In one of my all too frequent late night surfing sessions I came across Taff Swivels:

http://www.twtackle.net/products/Owner-TSS%2d52-Taff-Swivel.html

This seems to me to be a slight improvement on what Brice illustrated in that you could attach the assist hook directly to a solid ring instead of via a split ring.

Only thing is these don't seem to be generally available in the states...

Also, any thoughts on the "figure-8" solid rings?

http://www.jiggingmaster-ag.com/home/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=127:jm&catid=61:2010-12-14-13-10-17&Itemid=136&lang=en
 

johndtuttle

Angler/Client
Mar 20, 2008
5,569
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Carmel, CA
Name
john
Boat
not crazy enough yet
In one of my all too frequent late night surfing sessions I came across Taff Swivels:

http://www.twtackle.net/products/Owner-TSS%2d52-Taff-Swivel.html

This seems to me to be a slight improvement on what Brice illustrated in that you could attach the assist hook directly to a solid ring instead of via a split ring.

Only thing is these don't seem to be generally available in the states...

Also, any thoughts on the "figure-8" solid rings?

http://www.jiggingmaster-ag.com/home/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=127:jm&catid=61:2010-12-14-13-10-17&Itemid=136&lang=en

There is more than one way to skin a cat! :)

In the top setup the solid ring is a little safer and it won't ever come off. It IS possible to have split rings open and the solid rings are a little thin (can get inside the split ring). So by having them attached to the swivel like that you do gain a little reliability.

The second setup with the figure 8's the cords take abuse from the split ring, but the 8's are more reliable than a swivel (they do break once in a while).

It is all balance probably informed by negative recent experience with something going right or wrong. :)

Nothing will be better than fresh everything to eliminate problems. Everything has to be monitored from the assist cords, to the swivel, to the split rings that do get softer with repeated use etc. etc. Everyone has to find their own comfort level and meet their pocket book limitations.
 
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johndtuttle

Angler/Client
Mar 20, 2008
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john
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not crazy enough yet
This is what my Hook Box looks like:



All extra hardware, numerous store bought and homemade assist hooks etc. Many of the trebles have split rings on them already. For popping I take the hooks off and re-use them when I change lures. This way, instead of having so many heavy trebles (ie 10 sets of ST-66 3/0 on lures) I fish the same set on multiple lures to save bulk and hooks to rinse at the end of the day:




The Chapstick is ferrule wax :D.
 
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