Floating them doesn't make sense to me? And the stringers that are as light as foam and broken is "Not Good". I don't know how it could be better forward either. Hate to be the Bummer but what I see in the photo is all Bad. I would like to hear what others think myself. GL
Gotcha, You are on the right path, replace the stringers and bed them into the hull, then tab and laminate. Create any drainage holes etc. There are several threads recently that guys have replaced stringers and/or fuel tanks, decks, copy there processes. I think you get that you need to get your surfaces prepped and ready including getting a coat or 2 on any raw wood (new stringers) after they are cut to fit. could even laminate them prior to installing them.
About the cabin area. Thats a tuff one? I guess you are contemplating surgery through the liner....???
One more question I have. I noticed that for the most part the stringers do not contact the hull. There are quite a few spots where resin ran underneath the stringer and filled the voids but it looks like the intention was to keep them floating above the hull. Am I wrong in thinking that I could bed the entire stringer in thickened epoxy? Should I float the stringers completely and tab them in floating? How would I create a good bond on the layers of tabbing around the lower radius without fillets if I do float them? I'm still a couple weeks away from doing the stringers but I would appreciate any input. From what I can find online it seems the consensus is bed them entirely or float them entirely. It appears floating them was skipjacks intention.
My Skipjack stringers were the same - floating just off the hull. If you search around, you'll see that most rebuilders do the same. The theory is that if the wood stringers are in direct contact with the hull, it creates a "hard spot". If/when the hull flexes, the hard spots can create cracks in the hull, or gel coat.
I don't know how true this is but I rebuilt my stringers floating, just in case they are right. Some guys use little square foam cutouts under the stringers, and leave them glassed in. I used Home Depot paint mixing sticks cut into 1" squares.
I squeezed thickened resin under the stringers and used a rounded mixing stick to form the fillet. From my internet research, this is what most people do. Skipjack left a void between the hull and stringers.
Your glass work looks great. Let me know when you're available to come over and help with my build.
Thanks fishgrappler. It is actually pretty impressive how they managed to float the entire stringer system and glass them in without any fillets. I've thought about how they did this quite a bit. There are several half moon cutouts in the stringers, and at first I was thinking this was to drain water. But they are in weird areas that didn't make any sense. I think this is probably where they put a half round in place to space the stringer off the hull and then layed some glass to hold them in place and then removed them and finished glassing? I'm not sure though and I do tend to overthink things.
I'd be glad to come over and help you with your project. Just as soon as I get my boat finished. At the rate of progress right now I'll pencil you in for sometime in 2025 haha.
I'd definitely like to check your project out though if your local to me. It looks like your moving along pretty well with your skippy. I'm in Manteca.
Dear BassCat, really have enjoyed your shared project. Great work. Please keep the photos and problem solving coming. I’m in the glass business, and have done many like yours. I do some things different because I’m in business, meaning I’ve got to stay as practical as possible $ epoxy is a fabulous choice for your project, for us the cost and cure time can’t compete with vynlester.
it’s what we use by the drum.
when we get to the stage your at, we will laminate the entire bottom, then all secondary bonds have a fresh landing. I believe that the gap under production boats Stringers, has more to do with production. Not any deeper thinking about stress cracking. Boats we build have longitudinal and frames as tight and accurate as possible. Generally set in thickened resin. We then radius the joint using more thickened resin. then will use two layers of biaxial 1708 with a first layer of three oz mat. But we’re using vynlester not epoxy. Mat and epoxy don’t get along. As many products have resin soluble sizing that breakdown when introduced to resin. Epoxy is different chemistry. Also with epoxy you need to really grind your secondary bond areas. The epoxy blush will leave an oily residue on top that needs to be removed.
what do you think your project should cost at my shop ?
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God bless you, I simply wanted folks to know how difficult it is to estimate these projects. Like you, I take pride in solving restoration projects, that means discovery, and time. Keep the photos coming. I’m thinking with our flat mold, we might help develop the deck for you. I’ve been thinking about making a simple mold for the skipjack to make projects like yours go easier? Hatches and openings Built in reverse on a flat mold?I can't tell you what it should cost because Im not in the business. What I will say is that in materials alone for epoxy and glass supplies and coosa I am in over $5k. Probably closer to 6k. That's just for transom, stringers and flooring (cabin area rebuild included). You could easily cut that cost in half with wood and polyester. If I was going to get a bid at a shop for it to be built exactly how I am doing it with all the same materials, I wouldn't be surprised if I got quoted 12k-18k. That's because I am very familiar with the man hours involved. Now if you throw in a new motor, gauges and controls with hydro steering (28-32k), fuel tank($800), all electronics(4-5k), wiring, pumps, thru-hulls (2k), suspension seats( I paid $800 for an almost new pair and think I got a killer deal), well now your talking close to 50k in just material cost and parts. I think I'm starting to talk myself out of this project lol. I am curious though. If you did this at your shop with epoxy and coosa what would you charge? And trust me, whatever number you give will not be shocking to me after doing all this work. Unless your quote is under 10k. Then I'd be really shocked haha.