Aluminum Reel Seats?

Discussion in 'Fishing Rod Building Forum' started by chilidip, Dec 11, 2007.

  1. chilidip

    chilidip Newbie

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    I know it may be more of a preference thing.. but at what point do you guys start using the heavy duty stuff over graphite reel seats?
     
  2. Zombie

    Zombie Member

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    David,
    For me, it really is just a preference thing. I try to use the aluminum whenever possible in SW. Just for the durability issue. Besides, I think they look better. I will use the graphite seats on the really light SW stuff, say like 10-15 lbs, if I'm really trying to keep the rod light and the reel I'm using is rather small. Most of my rods 15 lb and up get the aluminum. That certainly may be overkill to some but that's just how I like to do it. Randy.
     
  3. chilidip

    chilidip Newbie

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    Thanks Randy, I have some stuff up to 40lb (Seeker 660H) with graphite reel seats. When I re-wrap, I think I'll switch to aluminum to match the reels that go on there...
     
  4. Comedie

    Comedie Newbie

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    Never noticed a bonafide, straight up comparison test of strength anywhere. Those Fuji DPSH seats are pretty thick walled and hefty. 2.5mm thick walls. which ever you use, there's another .5-1mm, minimum of epoxy built up underneathe (or weak void if not filled well).

    The hoods/shoes would seem like the part to fail on any of these. I've been meaning to try the new PacBay seats with graphite barrels and machined aluminum hoods. Sounds like a good combo of strength and lower weight.

    A worry I would have with aluminum is that the reel feet are usually stainless. Aluminum next to stainless and mixed with saltwater is not a good combo. You scratch thru the anodize and the problem begins.

    All that said, I haven't seen a seat structurally fail except for a front hood on a graphite once (which might not have been tight), and several where the build at the factory seemed to do a poor glue job. So within reason, the choice would seem to be a personal preference thing.
     
  5. 1:11

    1:11 WMDcustoms

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    I used the Fuji DPSH seats on rigs up to 50#, anything 60# and up, bigger two speed reel gets an aluminum seat. (for my own gear)

    edit: ive also tried a couple of Pac bay channel lock graphite seats. Work ok but i like the Fuji better, the Pac Bay is more susceptible to pop the threads, whereas the fuji snugs up real nice.
     
  6. tackle junkie

    tackle junkie Newbie

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    I have used aluminum reel seats on 30# rods and I have 40# rods that came with aluminum seats. I like the look of aluminum over most graphite reel seats but I would like to build some lighter rods with aluminum reel seats. I don't think there is any noticeable difference once you mount a reel onto the rod. I really like the Alps Triangle reel seats.
     
  7. Comedie

    Comedie Newbie

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    Care to explain that a bit more? Pop the threads?

    I've the PacBay GL20 and Fuji DSPH22 (really a 20mm) in front of me. Several actually, but they all seem the same. The threads look the same to me in depth and pitch. The nuts interchange. The PacBay does not have threads at the top where the channel is, but under tension it is the bottom ones that pull up tighter. One noticable difference is that there is a lot more play in the Fuji nut than in the PacBay nut. Tensioned and pulled up tight perhaps it doesn't matter? It's interesting though.

    Glad I looked now tho, as I found a few other differences. The ribbing inside the PacBay has a lot more bite than the Fuji. I like that. The PacBay plastic hoods are obviously flimsier than the Fuji where they hold the reel feet. I really don't like that. But there is one thing I love on that PacBay now that I look at it.... the channel design brings the reel down about 1.5mm in height. And structurally, that top section thinned by the channel makes little/no difference. Small, but that 1.5mm is a measurable performance difference I'll take. If the hoods were beefier on the all graph channel locks it would be a slam dunk for me anyway.

    Thanks for bringing up this thread. Think I'm gonna deep six my Fuji usage for the PacBay channel locks given this looksie. Question now is whether the GLC range aluminum hoods really beef up the hood or are merely decor. If the later, then I guess I will be looking at the full aluminum CL's (or looking for my own way to reinforce the GL hoods, like wrapping in stainless wire or bands).
     
  8. CALCOfshr

    CALCOfshr Newbie

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    Just another factor to add into this discussion...while using line up to 30 or even 40#, is anyone using excessive drag settings??? That would be a big factor in how much stress is placed on the reel seat. Another thing...FWIW...have any of you fellow builders ever tried putting a reel or rod base into a seat and attempted to see how much force it can withstand? I have and it takes tremendous pressure to destroy Fuji seats/hoods. I have only used Fuji graphites so I can't speak for all other manufacturers seats. As with anything else,there is bound to be a seat once in a great while that wasn't assembled up to specs, and everything has its limitations.
    I would be more concerned with my epoxy job holding up,keeping the seat itself secure. And making sure there was adequate support beneath the seat where the reel clamp would be tightened down,eliminating it from being crushed due to an overzealous preparation for a day on the water. I have seen some crushed by that simple thing. Of course,an aluminum seat would eliminate that from happening. :o)
    For many years now, a great many Sabre,Fenwick, and other rod manufacturers have had little issue with their seats breaking at the hoods. The factory rods I saw come in for seat replacement were mostly for a bad epoxy job. And I saw very few of those,yet it does happen. Not even the seats (on Sabres) with the machined aluminum hoods on the graphite body. And then again,I don't think they ever saw the size of fish the rod buyer had hoped for.
    As for my personal rods,I like graphite up to 50# line. It all depends on what the rod will be used for and what components I wish to build with. You can count the "overall" look into that as well.
    Chuck
     
  9. Ali

    Ali Master of Nothing Admin

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    This is an interesting question....

    I have Calstar 80# rods with Graphite Seats and I love them.

    I just had SaltyDawg wrap some 130# class rods for PV and I used the Fuji Graphites. The squidco guys thought it would be fine and I agree.

    These rods will be used on a panga and I wanted to avoid the normal corrosion that gets in the threads on the Alum seats and stainless reel feet.

    I think with a rod clamp it will be a no issue.

    I'll report back...
     
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  10. Comedie

    Comedie Newbie

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    Good stuff to know Chuck. I'll be a bit more trusting on my graphites now. Looks like I'll be using the PacBay graphite channel locks with the aluminum clad hoods. I've really liked the feel of the 'trigger' on the Fuji PSSM and hated that it was only made in a 20 size, and that it could be slightly further back for my hand. So I'm gonna try my hand at making a urethane mold of that section altered a bit, casting in epoxy, and then see how the result butts up against the PacBay straight seat.
     
  11. chilidip

    chilidip Newbie

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    Have you tried the Forecast seat as well? On my rods, I'm thinking of the Alps Centra-Lock for 30 & 40 and may go with the Forecast on the 60.
     
  12. steelfish

    steelfish the BBB, Baja Bass Boy..

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    I know its reaaaaaly old post, but did this ever happened?
    I mean, did Ali ever posted his findings on using a graphite reelseat on 130# class rod?
     
  13. FAT CAT

    FAT CAT FAT CAT

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    This goes with the question above about a reel seat for an 60-80# spin rod. Plastic is not a good choice for heavy drag pressures. If your build is for 50 pound or less then the graphite seats are fine. In the photo below the frame on the plastic reel broke before the 80# line parted.

    unspecified-1.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Oct 16, 2018
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  14. SouthBayKiller

    SouthBayKiller I've posted enough I should edit this section

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    Hey Bill, love your content and willingness to share your info. Check out this and let me know what you think:

    https://www.thebassbarn.com/forum/6...47983-black-hole-450g-finally-got-broken.html

    I just completed a 250g model, and the handle will flex as it does presumably on the 450g. Do you think this is a blank design issue or that a graphite seat is in fact OK for these applications? I’m in the process of getting a 450g blank for the same person and am sort of stuck in a gray area for components. I initially thought aluminum seat was the way to go, now I’m confused as all heck! Also similar question about guides, are normal medium frame guides suitable as well?
     
  15. steelfish

    steelfish the BBB, Baja Bass Boy..

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    hello Bill,
    I know you specify your answer for Spinning rods, but as seen in your picture the graphite seat of the TLD broke, the question here is if it would've be broken on graphite rod reel seat with reel clamp.

    I currently (while a personal 84XH custom rod is on the work) use a factory phenix axis 802H 60# rod (with a fuji graphite reel seat) with a Mak15SEA and 100# braid and normally use 30# drag fishing for groupers in Baja, the reel is always with the stock clamp and havent had any failure or problem so far.
    I know its nothing impresive cuz my biggest grouper so far is a 40# but those things haul as mad bulls.
     
  16. FAT CAT

    FAT CAT FAT CAT

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    Hi Robert, The jigging rods like the Black Hole are parabolic actions and they bend all the way to the seat, which is why most of those type of rods are being made with graphite seats (they're not really graphite). Most of the Black Hole rods I've seen in action (in videos) have been made as spinning rods - not conventional rods. From what I've seen on other threads on this subject is, the concern is about stress at the real seat's forward edge with an aluminum seat. Your link above seems to indicate that the rod being talked about broke in that area (I'm not sure) with an aluminum seat. Other things I don't know is the size of the seat (ID) in this instance and how it was mounted. Maybe the seat was simply too small for the application. I really can't see flexing to the point of the blank touching the edge of the seat to create a shear point (blank actually touching the seat's edge).

    I've had the hoods break on Fuji seats, like the one below, when the reel was being tightened (too much). I now wrap the hoods on that type seat and only use them for lighter line applications.

    On the jigging rods there are enough of them in use that it must be OK, but that doesn't have anything to do with other types of heavy rods and the use of plastic seats. Also - they're butt ugly, unless you're using a grey color combo. I'm in no way dissing Fuji here. They are my go to components, but nothing works in every situation.

    IMG_2157.jpg
     
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  17. jg125

    jg125 Well-Known "Member"

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    That is not the reel seat that is the reel foot broken seen that before on tld 50's
     
  18. FAT CAT

    FAT CAT FAT CAT

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    Alex, The rod in the photo belonged to the charter boat and it was the frame of the reel that failed (it's a lot thicker than any reel seat). You can see the remainder still attached to the seat. The seat itself looks like aluminum. The reel was a Shimano TLD50W Long Range Special (LRS) which means it's dragged for 80# line, which is what was being used at the time.

    This breakage probably wouldn't happen to most anglers. I'm NOT most anglers. I'm old and I have lots of experience, so I know my limits and I know how to put maximum hurt on the fish, because I don't want to be in any extended fights. Some of the guys I fish with regularly here call me the "knot tester" and one guy said "If you tell Bill he's got 80# line, he'll put 79 pounds of pressure on the fish." I can't recall a single instance where I've broken 80# line while punishing a fish. BTW the fish I was fighting was a 500 pound blue marlin.
     
  19. steelfish

    steelfish the BBB, Baja Bass Boy..

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    got it

    btw, are you the guy with the fighting belt on the pic?
    if that positive, nice to meet you, compa
     
  20. FAT CAT

    FAT CAT FAT CAT

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    Yeah, that's me - the old fat guy.
     

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