85 Outrage Rehab

acefuture

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Apr 3, 2019
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Tank is finally drained. Took me awhile to map out how I was going to go about it. Started with what I thought would be the easiest way and that was: tank > pre filter > racor filter with water jug collecting at the bottom, fuel going through > fuel pump > 55 gallon barrel. Unfortunately there’s more water than I expected so the racor and water jug filled up almost immediately. So I pulled the fuel water separator and just pumped everything into the 55 gallon. I’ll let it settle for the weekend and then try to get some of the fuel off the top and take the water to disposal. Also, the deck dried out and completely separated from the glass, so time to get the grinder out...

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onehottip

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May 8, 2006
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18.5 Wahoo cc , Evinrude Etec V6 135 HO
Lucky on my tank it had very little water or debris. What little I had was being held in suspension with the additives . Which was put into my autos.
 
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karlow

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That deck is going to be real fun! I was reading that someone built one out of some type of PVC that they ordered from Home Depot. If your top skin is OK, I would likely build a foam core floor. First bond in some hard mounts for the console, a T-Top, seats and the bait tank. The bad part about foam core construction is it is difficult to anchor items to it. Adding some 1/4" GRP sheet sections will solve that issue. The good thing about working with foam is it is simple to shape, cut. trim. If you bond sections together with epoxy and glass you end up with an even better product. You can save a ton of weight on that floor and end up with a better, stronger, stiffer, rot proof floor. My floor was never removed from the boat. It was just tilted at about 45 deg. It had damage around the inspection ports and some cracks in the the bottom cover and a bit of de lamination along the port side edge. I patched it with epoxy, some glass, and some thickened epoxy using PE for release paper. I used foamed sheets and plywood as backing while the repairs cured overnight. It worked OK, but when you think in terms of adding a T-Top you have 2nd thoughts and consider lifting up to add some reinforcement on the bottom. I don't have a A T-Top at this time, so for me, its not today's problem. How much do you think that floor weighs? 200lb?
 
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acefuture

@acecraftco
Apr 3, 2019
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That deck is going to be real fun! I was reading that someone built one out of some type of PVC that they ordered from Home Depot. If your top skin is OK, I would likely build a foam core floor. First bond in some hard mounts for the console, a T-Top, seats and the bait tank. The bad part about foam core construction is it is difficult to anchor items to it. Adding some 1/4" GRP sheet sections will solve that issue. The good thing about working with foam is it is simple to shape, cut. trim. If you bond sections together with epoxy and glass you end up with an even better product. You can save a ton of weight on that floor and end up with a better, stronger, stiffer, rot proof floor. My floor was never removed from the boat. It was just tilted at about 45 deg. It had damage around the inspection ports and some cracks in the the bottom cover and a bit of de lamination along the port side edge. I patched it with epoxy, some glass, and some thickened epoxy using PE for release paper. I used foamed sheets and plywood as backing while the repairs cured overnight. It worked OK, but when you think in terms of adding a T-Top you have 2nd thoughts and consider lifting up to add some reinforcement on the bottom. I don't have a A T-Top at this time, so for me, its not today's problem. How much do you think that floor weighs? 200lb?
I've been pondering what I'm going to do about the deck. Wood is the obvious answer but I think I like the thought of GRP better. Maybe do a sheet of 1/4" then foam over it, then glass the foam.

The deck was at least 200lbs. Took 3 guys to get it over the gunwale and on the ground.
 
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karlow

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Apr 29, 2004
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That's one reason mine was just tilted up. I used a cherry picker to lift it and propped it up with two 4x4's (maybe about a dozen times). My big concern is if you don't build your composite deck flat you are not going to be able to install it. It's not going to be flexible. I was thinking I might be able to install the shell upside down on the boat and lay up the foam and glass. That might work, but only if the hull is not tweaked left to right. Then you would have to pick it up and flip it over to check the fit. I would use two 1/4" sheets of polyurethane foam with glass between them and finish it with glass on the outside. I think the edge of the floor is about 1/4" thick around the perimeter.
 
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URN

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  • Feb 20, 2018
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    Whaler 25
    That's one reason mine was just tilted up. I used a cherry picker to lift it and propped it up with two 4x4's (maybe about a dozen times). My big concern is if you don't build your composite deck flat you are not going to be able to install it. It's not going to be flexible. I was thinking I might be able to install the shell upside down on the boat and lay up the foam and glass. That might work, but only if the hull is not tweaked left to right. Then you would have to pick it up and flip it over to check the fit. I would use two 1/4" sheets of polyurethane foam with glass between them and finish it with glass on the outside. I think the edge of the floor is about 1/4" thick around the perimeter.

    On the decks of my 25' Whaler I vacuum bagged them down to a flat surface bonding the new core material to the fiberglass skin. That kept it nice and flat on reinstallation. I have used flat concrete and that worked. Use the sticky butyl tape you get at Home Depot and the greenhouse plastic. A cheap amazon vacuum pump will work as long as there aren't any air leaks in the bag to flat surface.

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    karlow

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    Nicely done. What did you use for the core? It looks like wood. I have never bagged anything. I have used sand bags, but that's about it. Your methods looks better for large surfaces.
     
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    URN

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    Nicely done. What did you use for the core? It looks like wood. I have never bagged anything. I have used sand bags, but that's about it. Your methods looks better for large surfaces.

    I just used plywood. Where the screws penetrate I cutout the wood and did solid glass there. If you do the calculations there is tremendous downforce spread out over the surface area. A 4x8 sheet of plywood under 13psi vacuum (actually measured in inches of mercury), but 13psi is close enough, would have almost 60,000 pounds of downforce. It takes a few extra steps of preparation but well worth it to keep things flat.
     

    MATTANZA

    old man of the sea, in training.
    Aug 23, 2004
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    Boston Whaler 25' Outrage "MATTANZA II", 34' Radovcich "AMY ANNE" {when it needs to be fixed}
    wow , missed this. i recored my deck panels with hydrotek about 6 years ago . i'm in the process of putting my outrage back together.{ just recored the console}. i used vinlyester resin, hydrotek mahogany ply wood, 1.5 csm. 1708, and woven roven. all screw holes were bored out and the wood filled in with reinforced filler. all other holes were finished off with glass, my tanks are original 1981's , and still test good and foamed in.
     
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    acefuture

    @acecraftco
    Apr 3, 2019
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    Yanked the tank today. What was underneath looked like what you’d see in a haunted house. In the process of pulling it the pickup tube weld broke. But honestly the tank looks like it’s in really good shape. Drained the rest of the fuel out and am letting it air out. Then I’ll sand it down and get all the old foam off and really see what kind of shape it’s in. If it’s all good, I’ll weld on a new pickup tube bung and seal it. Going to get all the old soggy foam out tomorrow as well

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    MATTANZA

    old man of the sea, in training.
    Aug 23, 2004
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    Boston Whaler 25' Outrage "MATTANZA II", 34' Radovcich "AMY ANNE" {when it needs to be fixed}
    what's the measurement of the tank? i'd like replace mine with a plastic moeller , if they have any thing that works. i have 2 70 gal tanks, instead of a single 140
     
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    acefuture

    @acecraftco
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    or if you don't mind can you get me a measurement of the cavity the tank is set in?

    The cavity is:
    23" wide, 106" Long, 9" deep at deepest

    63 Gallon tank is:
    21.25" wide, 102.5" long, 8" deep

    140 gallons is a ton of gas, what size outrage do you have? These model outrages have this same 63 gallon. Interested to see what plastic replacements you find. I did a ton of research and found nothing that fit.

    Something to also keep in mind is these tanks are an offset V, with very low filler necks, vent port, and fuel pickup. So it makes them even more difficult to replace with aftermarket

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    MATTANZA

    old man of the sea, in training.
    Aug 23, 2004
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    acefuture

    @acecraftco
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    i have a 1981 24/25 outrage , the first year they were made. original tanks. man that's a shallow tank. thanks for the input... oh shit , i just noticed you have 22. my tank cavity is 38" wide and approx 89" long it's deeper than 9" . i know they had weird shpes. here's the link to all the moeller plastic tanks....
    moellermarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/08/Moeller-Open-Stock-Fuel-Tanks-List-FIN-7-29-16.pdf
    This is an 18' so it's definitely got a smaller fuel capacity than yours. Unfortunately none of those Moeller's fit
     
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    karlow

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    Power wash that thing so we can see what your are working with! Mine had mad texture. It had holes near the vent hose. Other placed it looked like it was eroded half way thru.

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    acefuture

    @acecraftco
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    Man that foam was disgusting. Got it all cleaned out. Still need to clean the residue off the walls. Pulled the gunwales off too. So now it’s completely down to bare hull. Started getting all the miscellaneous holes filled like all the screw holes from the rub rail. Hopefully have everything filled and faired out by next week.

    Tank is not looking so hot. I power washed it as much as possible but need to sand it to see what I’m working with. Filled it with water and am going to let it air dry before I take any power tools to it.

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    dalurker

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    Man that foam was disgusting. Got it all cleaned out. Still need to clean the residue off the walls. Pulled the gunwales off too. So now it’s completely down to bare hull. Started getting all the miscellaneous holes filled like all the screw holes from the rub rail. Hopefully have everything filled and faired out by next week.

    Tank is not looking so hot. I power washed it as much as possible but need to sand it to see what I’m working with. Filled it with water and am going to let it air dry before I take any power tools to it.

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    karlow

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    Now is the right time to plumb her for a below the deck drain and inlet for a bait tank. That will give it a clean finish. They run the plumbing thru the rigging tunnel. You have to cut down the section between the tank well and the rigging tunnel for the hoses. The only issue about that solution is its another place for water to get on top of the tank. My foam was not that bad. I reused most of it.
     

    acefuture

    @acecraftco
    Apr 3, 2019
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    Now is the right time to plumb her for a below the deck drain and inlet for a bait tank. That will give it a clean finish. They run the plumbing thru the rigging tunnel. You have to cut down the section between the tank well and the rigging tunnel for the hoses. The only issue about that solution is its another place for water to get on top of the tank. My foam was not that bad. I reused most of it.

    Yep that’s my plan. Going to route out a 3” section for the bait tank
     
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    acefuture

    @acecraftco
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    Sand, fill, sand, glass, sand, fair, sand, sand, sand. About the extent of the work over the past week. Was scouting a location to notch the stringer for bait tank hoses and found a weak spot. Looks like the glass started deteriorating and water got into the foam around the rigging tube. So I cut it out and got rid of the wet foam. I’ll reshape, refill it, then glass over it once I cut a section for the bait tank plumbing.

    For those who have notched the stringer for the plumbing, where did you do it? And any photos? I think I have a solid plan, but want to get it right so I don’t drill a 3” hole in the floor just to find out it’s placed incorrect.

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    karlow

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    I have not seen where they cut thru but it should be above the last strap location. Also note there is no reason to cut it very deep. Cut is at an angle to make it easier to route the hoses.
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    acefuture

    @acecraftco
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    Got the rigging tunnel stringer patched up. Filled the deep sections with a thick mix of 404 and epoxy. Grinded and sanded them down and laid 2-3 layers of 1.5 CSM. I’ll let it setup and then see if it needs anymore built up. I’ll fair it before paint.

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    On to fairing the hull sides. It’s a classic whaler, so the hull isn’t perfect. It has sections of waves throughout the hull. It isn’t delamination, I drilled a few holes to make sure. Just one of those 80s whalers that came like this from the factory. I just spent a HEAP of money on Awlgrip and want it to look as good as possible. So I’m going to sand and fair everything out as well as possible. The 410 isn’t my favorite because it often leaves small pin holes so I ordered some Quikfair and just got it. I went down the whole boat and marked all vertical and horizontal high spots. I’ll go back and sand, then fill and fair

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    karlow

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    When sanding, I would avoid going any deeper than the gel coat. I would not wan to thin out the glass. They recommend using a horizontal sander to avoid making the hull less flat. The problem is they require a lot of air.
     
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