85 Outrage Rehab

tranandya

Fishy
Aug 18, 2010
458
146
Anaheim
Name
Andy
Boat
Maritime 20p
Personal experience, I ran polycarbonate, acrylic, and glass windows on my dog house for 3 years all of them fog up regardless of what did to them. I used everything you can think of, they just slow down the foggy. If you go with a wiper setup get glass. Just my .02. Looking good man.
 
Upvote 0

karlow

Twins 2017
Apr 29, 2004
1,922
822
64
Duarte/Covina
Name
karl
Boat
20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
Thermal mass has nothing to do with fogging up. Temperature humidity and surface tension does. The best solution is dry air (AC) or hot air (heater). Hotter air can hold more moisture. In short, it's a boat, go with rain-X, open a window, and leave some of those heavy breathers at home so they can't fog up your windows!. You are going to need wippers to deal with the spray. Mark has to run them on his parker on the way in on most trips. Without them he would not be able to see crap. Your house seems to be small enough to stick your head out so you can see. You don't have to worry too much about fogging up, your space is open. Unless its cold and foggy.
 
Upvote 0

acefuture

@acecraftco
Apr 3, 2019
736
730
Costa Mesa, CA
Name
Ace
Boat
Always changing
Well few steps forward, then few steps back, then forward, then back, then forward.... Hooked up the bait tank pump and discovered a leak in the drain tube. Looks like it got pinched below deck when I bolted it down. So up came the deck to see what was going on. That was a pain in the ass. But sure enough, my rigging tube cutout was fine, but the fuel tank is just slightly higher than the rigging tube and it pinched it. Oh well, off I went to buy better hose. After 3 tries I finally got the right hose and actually stepped down to 1 1/4" drain hose. Went and got the good stuff this time from MMI.

IMG_0257.JPG

IMG_0258.JPG

IMG_0266.JPG

IMG_0265.JPG


With that issue remedied it was time to finally move onto hangin the motor. Went pretty straight forward until I realized my lower bolt holes didn't line up... So off the motor came. I used a 1/2" dowel that fit nicely into the old holes. Coated it in thickened epoxy and then coated the exterior of the holes with thickened epoxy and cut strands of glass. I'll go back and fair and paint later. Drilled new holes and mounted the motor with 1/4" stainless backing plates. Forgot to take a photo of those, but i will shortly.

IMG_0270.JPG

IMG_0271.JPG

IMG_0272.JPG

IMG_0273.JPG


This motor is in some serious need of a cosmetic face lift. Luckily the interior looks really really clean. I'll pull upper and lower cowlings and they'll get some much needed paint soon.
 
  • Like
Reactions: simmo13 and URN
Upvote 0

karlow

Twins 2017
Apr 29, 2004
1,922
822
64
Duarte/Covina
Name
karl
Boat
20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
Getting there!
Now for some more bad new.
It looks like you installed the bait pump in the only drain on the boat. That's an issue, but the bigger issue is that it might not work. That's not a self-priming pump. For it to work, its impeller needs to be below the waterline. It might work if you are underway, but sitting.... no love. It would make for a clean install, but it does need to work as well. You could add a 2nd port in the deepest port of the bulge and slam a pump down a bit lower. That should work, maybe. It's a bit complicated. My pump is on the transom, it works great. It's not clean. It has a slight scoop that extends below the hull just a bit. At rest the waterline is right at the drains, So it pumps at rest. At speed the pump may be above the waterline but that little scoop keeps her primed. She is mounted low.

pump view.JPG
 
Upvote 0

998R

Member
May 22, 2008
866
1,041
san diego
Name
M
Boat
Blue Monkey, BM2
Getting there!
Now for some more bad new.
It looks like you installed the bait pump in the only drain on the boat. That's an issue, but the bigger issue is that it might not work. That's not a self-priming pump. For it to work, its impeller needs to be below the waterline. It might work if you are underway, but sitting.... no love. It would make for a clean install, but it does need to work as well. You could add a 2nd port in the deepest port of the bulge and slam a pump down a bit lower. That should work, maybe. It's a bit complicated. My pump is on the transom, it works great. It's not clean. It has a slight scoop that extends below the hull just a bit. At rest the waterline is right at the drains, So it pumps at rest. At speed the pump may be above the waterline but that little scoop keeps her primed. She is mounted low.

View attachment 1318288


ace, I have my pump in the same spot without issues. I would recommend a seacock before your pump. When I have my valve open without the pump on. Just driving the boat, water flows in my tank.

Mount a bilge pump on the flat part of the corner splash well and your good to go.


I run a rule 1600 bronze and had zero issues for the past 5 years.
 
Upvote 0

acefuture

@acecraftco
Apr 3, 2019
736
730
Costa Mesa, CA
Name
Ace
Boat
Always changing
ace, I have my pump in the same spot without issues. I would recommend a seacock before your pump. When I have my valve open without the pump on. Just driving the boat, water flows in my tank.

Mount a bilge pump on the flat part of the corner splash well and your good to go.


I run a rule 1600 bronze and had zero issues for the past 5 years.
Good to hear it worked! I didn’t think I needed a seacock but that does make a good point. I also mounted a bilge pump down below as well exactly how you describe it. Thanks
 
Upvote 0

acefuture

@acecraftco
Apr 3, 2019
736
730
Costa Mesa, CA
Name
Ace
Boat
Always changing
Now for bonding/grounding of the tank since it’s been brought up in this thread. The original whaler configuration was a 16 gauge wire wrapped around the exterior of filler tube down the filler neck and secured with a clamp. It was attached to the tank, and then to the puck on the transom. I got rid of the puck on the transom and went this route instead. I bonded the filler/tank using a 12 gauge wire bolted to one of the bolts that secures the filler neck, made sure there was clean metal for a good connection. Then secured the other side to the tank via a clamp on the input tube. It is ground to the battery via the ground from the sending unit. I think I’ll also run a wire from the clamp to the neg batter terminal as well, may be redundant but will be for sure ground. I like this much better and think it’s cleaner as well

B6A7B538-5360-4C52-BD64-0C168A00ABC3.jpeg
94A46A47-472E-412E-BBF4-75C81ACA66F0.jpeg
8F8352E9-21F1-4A69-8C7B-E38DF250707C.jpeg
988DA51C-4339-4623-A7D3-B0B76216531B.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Christianbrat
Upvote 0

onehottip

I Should Upgrade My Account
May 8, 2006
1,366
1,305
So cal
Name
Guerms
Boat
18.5 Wahoo cc , Evinrude Etec V6 135 HO
IMO you want the engine Av plate 1 1/2” above the keel. Too low and you will have a porpoising issue.
 
Upvote 0

acefuture

@acecraftco
Apr 3, 2019
736
730
Costa Mesa, CA
Name
Ace
Boat
Always changing
IMO you want the engine Av plate 1 1/2” above the keel. Too low and you will have a porpoising issue.
There wasn’t a position that quite made sense with this motor so I reached out to the guy who started the Everything Boston Whaler page and he said the best performance with this hull and motor was 1 bolt hole up. So that’s where I’ll start and play with props. Will report back
 
Upvote 0

onehottip

I Should Upgrade My Account
May 8, 2006
1,366
1,305
So cal
Name
Guerms
Boat
18.5 Wahoo cc , Evinrude Etec V6 135 HO
Another website Continuouswave says 2 or 3 holes up. But yea personal trial and error Is best. Is your motor a 150?
 
Upvote 0

karlow

Twins 2017
Apr 29, 2004
1,922
822
64
Duarte/Covina
Name
karl
Boat
20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
A 1600 is a lot of pump, what size tank are you running, and fast does it fill with that pump? That one draws about 5 amps.
 
Upvote 0

karlow

Twins 2017
Apr 29, 2004
1,922
822
64
Duarte/Covina
Name
karl
Boat
20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
It looks like they forgot the grounding tab on the tank by the fuel inlet on your tank. At least it fit under the deck!
On my rig it came with the motor mounted low using the center hole. I pushed it up. I also painted the case a few years back with factory rattle can stuff. It looked great the fist year, not so great these days. You are starting with a much better looking case.


1631648336986.png



1631648435135.png
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0

acefuture

@acecraftco
Apr 3, 2019
736
730
Costa Mesa, CA
Name
Ace
Boat
Always changing
Another website Continuouswave says 2 or 3 holes up. But yea personal trial and error Is best. Is your motor a 150?
Yea its a 150
It looks like they forgot the grounding tab on the tank by the fuel inlet on your tank. At least it fit under the deck!
On my rig it came with the motor mounted low using the center hole. I pushed it up. I also painted the case a few years back with factory rattle can stuff. It looked great the fist year, not so great these days. You are starting with a much better looking case.
They didn't forget it, just tucked it in a weird spot that I can't quite get a hand on.
What prop are you running and what do your numbers look like?
 
Upvote 0

karlow

Twins 2017
Apr 29, 2004
1,922
822
64
Duarte/Covina
Name
karl
Boat
20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
I did a walk down memory lane, and here is what I found.
The rig came with a 14 x17 Al prop. I see 5800 RPM @ an unknown speed.
I ran a 19" lazor prop, it was way over propped.
I also have a 4 blade 14.5 x 16" prop it went 5800RPM fully loaded.
3800RPM at 19.6 kntts
36 knts @ 5600 RPM

The four blade prop may be the best choice, but it comes with trade offs. Four blade props cause vibrations. At idle speed it causes things on my rig to rattle. I have been running a 17" three blade SS prop, but I didn't find any number on it.
1631736090349.png

Is that the drain for the bait tank?
Is the pump installed in the bilge?
 
Upvote 0

998R

Member
May 22, 2008
866
1,041
san diego
Name
M
Boat
Blue Monkey, BM2
I did a walk down memory lane, and here is what I found.
The rig came with a 14 x17 Al prop. I see 5800 RPM @ an unknown speed.
I ran a 19" lazor prop, it was way over propped.
I also have a 4 blade 14.5 x 16" prop it went 5800RPM fully loaded.
3800RPM at 19.6 kntts
36 knts @ 5600 RPM

The four blade prop may be the best choice, but it comes with trade offs. Four blade props cause vibrations. At idle speed it causes things on my rig to rattle. I have been running a 17" three blade SS prop, but I didn't find any number on it.
View attachment 1318748
Is that the drain for the bait tank?
Is the pump installed in the bilge?
Good eye.

Yes and Yes, through hole through the bilge with seacock.
 
Upvote 0