1st boat project- Skipjack 20

willit float

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jun 7, 2008
411
104
South Cal
Name
Em
Boat
20' Livesay Offshore Utility
There were pipes running up to the scoops on the gunnel in my SJ. I think this was was to vent the tank and engine area ( all one space in my boat when I started). Don't recall them being on the blower.
Yes, I’ve since been looking at various Skipjack 20’ fuel tank area photos. It seems like that area was isolated and vented with two hoses going out to exterior scoop style vents. I like that.
 

stangclassic66

USCG Master
Oct 21, 2004
1,364
780
San Diego/SF Bay
Name
Capt. Erik
Boat
21' Center Console
That tank "looks" good, but you went through all the trouble of pulling it. I would strong suggest you take it to a good radiator shop and have the tank pressure tested. That will tell you if it needs repair or patching. It looks stainless to me as well but the welder used "cheap" made in china stainless welding rod.

My advice is to scuff up the welded spots and coat it with POR-15. That should stop the rust from advancing.

As for the inside, we don't know. There may be light rust on the baffle welds so my best advice for that would be to use a good racor spin on filter between the tank and the engine once you get to that point. That way the engine can't be compromised.

Good work so far bud.

As for the dash, you best bet is to leave it as is and get a 1/4" piece of starboard cut to size to make it a fresh dash and screw it over the existing panel. You probably want to enlarge the dash hole into one big hole altogether that way you only need to cut holes in the new starboard. Lots of boat owners do this when upgrading their electronics. Just give it a new face plate is all.
 
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C.Bergs

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 21, 2015
291
501
Marina del Rey
Name
Cory
Boat
Skipjack 24 Open - Pau Hana
Looks like you've made some substantial headway in your resto.

I pulled the aluminum tank in my 24 Open this weekend. It was a nightmare with all the foam. If you or anyone else here on how to properly bracket the new tank to the stringers, I'm all ears. The tank came out with a 1/8" to spare on each side, so I presume I'll have to weld the brackets with the tank in the hole? Thanks for the help. Not trying to hijack here, so maybe someone can PM me some pictures.

+1 on the Por-15. That shit is magic.
 

stank

I've posted enough I should edit this section
May 16, 2005
1,034
571
62
Norco, CA
Name
Dave
Boat
None
Were it me, I would treat any welds on stainless with pickling paste.
 

fishgrappler

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jul 4, 2015
252
128
45
Name
Bru
Boat
Skipjack 24 Open
Looks like you've made some substantial headway in your resto.

I pulled the aluminum tank in my 24 Open this weekend. It was a nightmare with all the foam. If you or anyone else here on how to properly bracket the new tank to the stringers, I'm all ears. The tank came out with a 1/8" to spare on each side, so I presume I'll have to weld the brackets with the tank in the hole? Thanks for the help. Not trying to hijack here, so maybe someone can PM me some pictures.

+1 on the Por-15. That shit is magic.
This will be an issue for me as well. Should have made a bigger cutout in my deck I guess. I saw a post somewhere on BD where vertical tabs were welded to the top of the tank. These were screwed to braces that ran over top of the tank, and the deck laid over top of the braces. I'll look for the thread if you're interested.

I'll probably do the same thing. I'm also toying with the idea of putting a "dab" of foam in each corner.