1st boat project- Skipjack 20

HighRootz

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 23, 2018
131
77
38
San Diego
Name
Al Nelson
Boat
Skipjack 20
I appreciate all the feedback fellas, every single one of yous gets a free ride when shes seaworthy and some tasty beer, Cheers!
I think once I get her on a stable enough trailer to hold/move her, then I can have the peace of mind on walking around and working on her without it going out underneath me. I'm doing all my research and budgeting on what I want to do with her exactly. If the I/O option is better for the budget, I'll most likely start saving for the outboard repower once shes able to maneuver in the water safely with the I/O
 
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bman440440

I am the one who knocks!!!
Sep 8, 2010
2,705
1,129
47
San Diego 92117
Name
B-MAN
Boat
Heisenberg(20' Maxum), Ships & Giggles (32' double decker pontoon)
Thanks again bud. I was looking at alpha 1 gen 2 outdrives and they have I guess standard and counter rotation drives, does it matter which one I put or does it have to be a specific one to fit?
either will work but standard rotation will be easier to find and there are WAY more propeller options for it as well
 

shadzdad

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Aug 6, 2010
825
172
Wahiawa,HI USA
Name
Darren
Boat
building one
I appreciate all the feedback fellas, every single one of yous gets a free ride when shes seaworthy and some tasty beer, Cheers!
I think once I get her on a stable enough trailer to hold/move her, then I can have the peace of mind on walking around and working on her without it going out underneath me. I'm doing all my research and budgeting on what I want to do with her exactly. If the I/O option is better for the budget, I'll most likely start saving for the outboard repower once shes able to maneuver in the water safely with the I/O
I would pull her off the trailer and put it up on blocks. You could even lower it to make it easier to get in and out of. That's what i did and it helps for bigger projects. That's just my 2 cents, start the build and you'll be able to take your time and wait for the right deal on a trailer. Either way you go, good luck on your build and look forward to seeing the progress.
 
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HighRootz

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 23, 2018
131
77
38
San Diego
Name
Al Nelson
Boat
Skipjack 20
I would pull her off the trailer and put it up on blocks. You could even lower it to make it easier to get in and out of. That's what i did and it helps for bigger projects. That's just my 2 cents, start the build and you'll be able to take your time and wait for the right deal on a trailer. Either way you go, good luck on your build and look forward to seeing the progress.
Thanks bud. I've thought about that and that may be my option and just block her down in the driveway. I do got a few leads on some trailers. If one can go thru within the next week, I should be good for awhile and then can focus on giving her a full body check
 
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rowdyrosco

sancho
Apr 9, 2009
516
188
PSL
Name
ross
Boat
Skipjack 20
Man! congrats on the new project... I wanted this thing bad!! I think I was the first to contact him too, but with a 2nd kid on route and just finished building a bayrunner, it was just bad timing.
A skipjack 20' pilot house will more than likely be my next project. A guy on here built one exactly how I would build it. They ride very well with an outboard I hear...

View attachment 981018
She might be up for sale soon.
 
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karlow

Twins 2017
Apr 29, 2004
1,720
682
62
Duarte/Covina
Name
karl
Boat
20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
Thats a great deal on CL, you get a boat for the price of the trailer!
The power package on that boat is worth an investigation if its still there. FYI for CL items, you have to be quick like a bunny w cash-in-hand.
 

spear-fish

Something smells fishey
Aug 26, 2005
539
142
Chino
Name
Mike
Boat
77 Skippy 20 Open OB Spear-Fish III
Man! congrats on the new project... I wanted this thing bad!! I think I was the first to contact him too, but with a 2nd kid on route and just finished building a bayrunner, it was just bad timing.
A skipjack 20' pilot house will more than likely be my next project. A guy on here built one exactly how I would build it. They ride very well with an outboard I hear...

View attachment 981018
Got to love that shallow water rockfishing!

fullsizeoutput_41d2.jpeg
 

karlow

Twins 2017
Apr 29, 2004
1,720
682
62
Duarte/Covina
Name
karl
Boat
20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
The Skippy with the house on it is sweet! I might have to convert mine. What kind of mileage are you getting with the outboard? For a Skipjack I would expect you need about 200HP.
 

mike mitchell

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jul 25, 2017
1,837
1,158
60
San Diego
Name
Michael Mitchell
Boat
20 Bertram
Not only different size but different mounts. In line 4 and 6 have an A frame mount in the front, you would need to add stringer mounts. Donor boats are best ! Good luck!
 
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HighRootz

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 23, 2018
131
77
38
San Diego
Name
Al Nelson
Boat
Skipjack 20
So now that I had a little time today now that the weather has cleared up. I was finally able to pull the old upholstery along the sides and get a good look at all the pretty, rusted nuts and bolts around and under the railing. After pulling the old upholstery, I noticed some places where it separated(?) and a 4 bullet holes. I'm thinking of just painting or gel coating the topside, should I reglass those areas that separated or should I patch with marine tex and sand it all down til its smooth then paint? Also, with those rusty nuts, is my best bet a saw or will a prayer to Poseidon and some penetration oil work? I also noticed some wet and rotting wood under a couple rod holders, I may just start thinking outboard lol. On a positive note, I did find a a old sticker with my boats serial number, #607 I believe it said before deteriorating
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Arima-bob

Ship faced aquaholic
Mar 9, 2012
4,757
3,343
Too far from water
Name
Beeulzebob
Boat
uh....
Bullet holes are classic and add character! :D

The rusted bolts and such, I would try a good soak with pb blaster. Let it soak in for a while before trying to remove them.

As for the separation, I can't quite comment. I haven't had to deal with that myself.
 
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HighRootz

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 23, 2018
131
77
38
San Diego
Name
Al Nelson
Boat
Skipjack 20
Thanks Bob, I will grab some pb blaster in the morning and spray down those nuts and bolts. As for the upholstery glue, I don't want to use something harsh like a goof off, would acetone work to take it off?
 

Arima-bob

Ship faced aquaholic
Mar 9, 2012
4,757
3,343
Too far from water
Name
Beeulzebob
Boat
uh....
Acetone might work, but I use a heat gun with a razor blade.

I would use acetone for the light clean up.
 
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tuna taxi

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jun 11, 2004
1,742
92
49
92335
Name
Jorge
Boat
20' Skipjack
View attachment 985906 View attachment 985907 View attachment 985914

The lag bolt appears to be bolted to the bottom deck. The only reason I know is because I pulled my helm deck up a few inches last night and noticed that the bottom deck goes a few inches forward/under the helm deck. Can you post pics of the entire from deck? I'd like to see how it looks and why its bolted down

The delamination/separation on the second pic looks familiar to what I had on my boat, I separated it last night from the helm all the way to the stern, I plan on cutting the rest out starting this week, I'm planning on having the entire deck ripped out by the end of the week.

Good luck and stay in touch!!
 
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karlow

Twins 2017
Apr 29, 2004
1,720
682
62
Duarte/Covina
Name
karl
Boat
20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
Rusted bolts are such fun! I worked on a maker light on my trailer on Sunday.
Rusted bolt. I dont waist time with them, I just grind the head off! The problem is, on your boat it would catch on fire! Too much heat!
 
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HighRootz

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 23, 2018
131
77
38
San Diego
Name
Al Nelson
Boat
Skipjack 20
@tuna taxi
Here are a few pics of the deck. Was your laminate that was separating connected to the deck? It seems like it's one big fitted piece of laminate going up about a quarter way of gunnel and connected to the back deck plate near doghouse
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sickcat

Silverback
Aug 5, 2003
3,242
1,265
63
LA
Name
Kerry
Boat
Yellow spot
Rusted bolts are such fun! I worked on a maker light on my trailer on Sunday.
Rusted bolt. I dont waist time with them, I just grind the head off! The problem is, on your boat it would catch on fire! Too much heat!
A nut splitter comes in handy when the more aggressive options aren't possible.
 
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willit float

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jun 7, 2008
411
104
South Cal
Name
Em
Boat
20' Livesay Offshore Utility
Looking at how the floor decking attaches to the sides it almost looks like pre formed pieces fit into place. Maybe someone else knows about how these decking pieces were installed.
My boat had clear definite lines of where the floor cloth was resined and attached going up the gunwhale sides etc. The cloth fit clearly hand laid and was a bitch to get separated from the sides. When I rebuilt the decking it’s clear that it was all hand laid. Just looking at the photos I know is different than being there in person.
If this was assemeled in pieces, maybe they will come apart in pieces if necessary to remove and be repaired and reinstalled. ?
 
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HighRootz

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 23, 2018
131
77
38
San Diego
Name
Al Nelson
Boat
Skipjack 20
Looking at how the floor decking attaches to the sides it almost looks like pre formed pieces fit into place. Maybe someone else knows about how these decking pieces were installed.
My boat had clear definite lines of where the floor cloth was resined and attached going up the gunwhale sides etc. The cloth fit clearly hand laid and was a bitch to get separated from the sides. When I rebuilt the decking it’s clear that it was all hand laid. Just looking at the photos I know is different than being there in person.
That sounds about right. By the looks of it, it seems like one fabricated piece that connects to the deck. I think it's all connected-from the gunnel to the engine and fuel compartments to the lip in the middle of the deck. I hope someone here has a answer on a easier way to pull it up to get a good look at the stringers and what's going on under the deck
 

stangclassic66

USCG Master
Oct 21, 2004
1,320
737
San Diego/SF Bay
Name
Capt. Erik
Boat
25’ Parker
Man I remember my first project boat...

One good tip for when you get to the fiberglass parts. Troll the boat yards for a guy that does side work. Do it while the yard manager isn't looking and usually those guys bite. Way cheaper. In the SF bay I had a guy that did several of my boats for a decent price and he was always happy with the side jobs.

Before you spend more money, I would take a heavy plastic mallet and bang on the transom. Feel free to use a hammer on the inside. You want to check the transom for delaminated glass or separation or wet wood.

Then after you've deemed that good, open up all the hatches and take a hammer and wrap along the stringers. If there are any existing holes, stick something in there to see how wet the wood is of it's completely hollow.

The stringers are the spine of your boat. If they are no good, then it makes no sense to sink any money into it if it isn't solid. Google "rotten boat stringers" if you don't understand what i'm talking about.

You can always replace stringers but that requires removing the cap or the deck and can be very costly to do.

These are things I do before I jump all the way into projects. Generally I do this when inspecting the boat for purchase.
 
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tuna taxi

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jun 11, 2004
1,742
92
49
92335
Name
Jorge
Boat
20' Skipjack
That sounds about right. By the looks of it, it seems like one fabricated piece that connects to the deck. I think it's all connected-from the gunnel to the engine and fuel compartments to the lip in the middle of the deck. I hope someone here has a answer on a easier way to pull it up to get a good look at the stringers and what's going on under the deck

I looked and examined and scanned and peaked and viewed and touched and fondled every inch of the deck and it looks like the only way to get it out in one piece is to remove the cap of the boat, that's a major task and you would definitely need a ton of space and some sort of crane or forklift to be able to remove the entire cap in one piece. Since removing it in one piece is not an option for me I will be cutting it out and building a fresh deck, I'm not to worried about it looking pretty because once if gelcoated I plan on using rubber mats on the entire floor.
 
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HighRootz

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 23, 2018
131
77
38
San Diego
Name
Al Nelson
Boat
Skipjack 20
Man I remember my first project boat...

One good tip for when you get to the fiberglass parts. Troll the boat yards for a guy that does side work. Do it while the yard manager isn't looking and usually those guys bite. Way cheaper. In the SF bay I had a guy that did several of my boats for a decent price and he was always happy with the side jobs.

Before you spend more money, I would take a heavy plastic mallet and bang on the transom. Feel free to use a hammer on the inside. You want to check the transom for delaminated glass or separation or wet wood.

Then after you've deemed that good, open up all the hatches and take a hammer and wrap along the stringers. If there are any existing holes, stick something in there to see how wet the wood is of it's completely hollow.

The stringers are the spine of your boat. If they are no good, then it makes no sense to sink any money into it if it isn't solid. Google "rotten boat stringers" if you don't understand what i'm talking about.

You can always replace stringers but that requires removing the cap or the deck and can be very costly to do.

These are things I do before I jump all the way into projects. Generally I do this when inspecting the boat for purchase.
Thanks for the tips, Capt. I'm gonna ask a few friends that work at NASCO and YYK to ask around for me to find a guy who does side work. I'm gonna dig out the old mallet and start checking the transom

I looked and examined and scanned and peaked and viewed and touched and fondled every inch of the deck and it looks like the only way to get it out in one piece is to remove the cap of the boat, that's a major task and you would definitely need a ton of space and some sort of crane or forklift to be able to remove the entire cap in one piece. Since removing it in one piece is not an option for me I will be cutting it out and building a fresh deck, I'm not to worried about it looking pretty because once if gelcoated I plan on using rubber mats on the entire floor.
I was hoping you found a solution to our dilemma lol. I may just have to cut away myself. I do plan on putting Sea deck over the entire deck myself