Discussion in 'Check Out My Boat Customization' started by PassTheSoySauce, Aug 21, 2014.
She's sweet...Im diggin the arch/bimini....that boat must be pushin 50mph?
Yup, closer to 44 on a nice flat pond to the Coronado's in no time with the duo-props.
Nice Boat! I believe that is the exact same boat that I have. The original paperwork lists the engine as a 350, but yes it has a 2 barrel carb.
You had mentioned replacing the u joint bellows on my outdrive. What is the difficulty level in replacing both of those? I believe I have a brand new set of exhaust bellows, but i'm not exactly sure where they are located. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I will be working on her this thursday so I will post some pictures. I am hoping to get the new steering system installed as well as the fish finder that a buddy gave me.
Yes, that is what mine look like on the inside, but on the outside i have the duck bill that sticks out the back of the transom. I will take a picture if I can get it installed.
You will need to remove the drive leg, this is where your going to get challenged, these things are a bitch if crusty. the bellows is inside the leg and connects to the transom shield, the U joint also is in the same location. and while your at it change the shift cable. and the raw water pick up tube, once you get the thing off and can inspect these components it will become apparent whats going on.
So I went down the other day and replaced my helm and cable as well as installed a new steering mount onto the outdrive(interior). There are some pics of the new helm attached. I also got started dismantling the exhaust manifold on the left side so that I can remove the broken off bolt that is stuck in the head. I also attached some pictures of the bolt. it only sticks out roughly 1/4 inch and cant be gripped with pliers, so I purchased a couple different bolt extraction kits and a lefty drill bit. I hope to get that out next week when my new bolts for the riser and manifold arrive.
I inspected both of the Bellows, and they are in prefect shape. I have replacements on hand, but the previous owner said he had replaced them before last storing the boat so I think things will be good. I tightened the clamps and the rubber seems to be in good shape. All of the other components looked good as well. While down there I pumped grease into the nipples and double checked fluid levels. all looked good.
I will take some more pictures once I get back to work on her next week.
So I was able to take a picture of the inside of my drain. It looks just like yours with the small well for water to drain to. I want to figure out if there is another way to install an actual scupper instead of the flapper valves it is currently set up to accomadoate. The tube that goes through the fiberglass hull is split with a 1 inch gap between them. Not an easy fix I am guessing. Anyone have any ideas?
Don't see a pic of the head with the broken bolt..
If its really sticking out 1/4 of an inch you should be able to clamp down on it with some vice grips. Also cuz its sticking out if vicegrips don't work getting a nut big enough for the broken bolt to be recessed into the nut & then welding the nut to the broken bolt may be easier as if she is really seized in there the major heat penetration from the welder usually helps getting them loose...
sorry, all of my pictures arent loading. lets try this again...
Soak that bad boy with some PBBlaster for a day...heat it with a mapp gas torch (mapp isn't as hot as it once was) and either clamp with vice grips or welding a nut on it is a great idea (Rob).
On the scupper issue....I have the same double hollow wall configuration. Im thinking a thru hull/transom fitting? Gotta get inventive at the plumbing store... one of my little wells has been cut out leaving a hole for water to enter the hull, above the stringer, where it sits to rot away....gotta pull the motor sometime and address that sooner than I will...lol. thanks for the pics.
Looks like you'll be needing a 90 degree drill....the PB Blaster is still helpful. Also...are your spark plugs MR? The MR plugs are marine grade stainless that wont seize in the head. On all of your exhaust manifold bolts it's good to apply antiseize compound on the threads, this will save you from revisiting the broken bolt syndrome again.... Oh, one more thing....take a ball peen hammer, smack that broken bolt once or twice good, a dead blow hammer is even better (steel head). This helps to free stuck threads too....If I think a bolt might be or is tough to remove, Ill rapp em with a hammer before even attempting to remove. Good luck.
actually it will be a straight shot at the bolt, just a funky angle with the camera. I will have lots of pics once I tackle this guy.
The Spark Plugs are just regular ole plugs from pep boys. When I went to buy the stuff from west marine, the guy told me not to waste my money on the marine grade plugs and other easily wearable parts. He said to just go to a auto parts store for that kind of stuff. He did add though that if it was a part that is mot considered a "wearable" part, than I should spend the extra money. It seemed like a logical tip. I will make sure to use the anti-seize compound.
Thank you for the tips i'm sorry for the late response. I had to spend a few weeks updating an outdated steering system and am happy to report it all went in without a hitch.
So I went ahead and bought new bolts for the risers, and then ran a tap into the bolt holes on the exhaust manifolds. I was able to get a much better grip on the old bolts, however they look worn as well. When the new bolts arrive next week I should be able to get a nice seal.
Well, Im not sure about "wearable parts"....all wear at some rate. Starters, alternators and fuel pumps wear and the three should never be anything but marine grade...the other stuff just wont last....just sayin.
yeah, those wold be purchased marine grade. basically I understood it as: if you would replace it routinely than save the money and go automotive. if it is something that will be there for a while go marine grade.
Project boats will always throw some surprises at you. If the broken bolt starts to become a PIA trying to remove it, it is easily removed by an EDM machine. Check your area for a guy that does it. Some guys are mobile, or you can trailer to their shop. Google EDM bolt removel, and youtube has vid's about it. If you drill off center for a easy out, your looking at a new block because the mani bolts wont align with a off center re-tapped hole in the block. Keep posting your updates,,,gregg
Gregg, It's a exhaust header bolt....not the block. Worst case scenario is to replace the head...
Yeah, it's the exhaust header. Thanks for the tip on the EDM, if I have issues I will check that out.
I am heading down in a little bit to try and get that bolt out. If all goes well I may just have this thing in the water by next week. Wish me luck, I will post pics later tonight.
I love your ambition and energy! Kind of reminds me of me many years back. Haha. Anyway, marine starters, alternators, and any below deck electrical component is spark proof to avoid explosion hazards. If it's not coast guard approved, don't use it. Just saying. Good luck with your project.
One last...grind/file the end of the bolt flat, then ping a spot with a center punch to start ur drill....sorry if Im stating the obvious... Let us know if you gat to the water this weekend, Ill possibly be there myself n do some fishin! Good luck!!
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