1978 Fiber Form, 21ft

trlrtrsh67

Porch Honkey
Nov 22, 2007
67
3
Running Springs
Name
Rich
Boat
14' Gregor / IMP 220 Sportsman WA
Mine just has the little rubber flaps on the outside of the scuppers to help prevent water washing back in. Not familiar with the duck bills myself.
 

skillett

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jun 11, 2009
115
19
Oxnard, Ca. U.S.A.
Name
Doug
Boat
25' Skipjack Sportsman
I don't have any! The water.on my channelled deck.goes into the bilge...I need to install scuppers!.....this boat even has fresh water wash down too....what were they forgetting??......duh. please post a pic of the flappers vs. the rubber duckys....lol
 

PassTheSoySauce

Well-Known "Member"
Jun 24, 2014
88
40
37
Name
Brandon Brooks
Boat
1978 Fiber Form Custom
Yeah I will, they look like this:

image.jpg


It's crazy you don't have any scuppers. The kind I have are simple, but a pain in the ass to install.
 
Last edited:

PassTheSoySauce

Well-Known "Member"
Jun 24, 2014
88
40
37
Name
Brandon Brooks
Boat
1978 Fiber Form Custom
The tube passes the hull, the "duck bill" snaps on to the end of the tube. Forward motion pushes water out the duck bill but will close once the boat stops or the deck is clear.
 

40Grit

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 9, 2009
714
337
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat
Radovich 34
Great project and good luck to you.
I have resuscitated a number of projects like your Fiberform. in fact, we have done a F/F 28

If I were launching your project, I would, Replace both the risers and [manifolds], debris settling in the passages will always reduce cooling, and more importantly they have suffered the same time limits the risers have. We don't even look at them, having tried the cleaning route only to be disappointed many times, the gasket surfaces are the first to go, becoming so thin, no gasket can maintain a seal. When this seal goes away the motor will ingest water.

We also will Replace the raw water pump with the larger pump that is used on the 454 big block, its taller with a bit more volume. Volvos are inherently small raw water pumps, compare them to Mercury's. I think this is a bigger is better deal.

I would also replace the fuel lift pump with new. as for the cap and rotor, I would convert the trigger system to a point less magnetic trigger AKA Pertronics system. this eliminates the inline resistor wire that can be problematic. you run the mag trigger at full 12 volts.

by the photos your Volvo looks like a 305 CI due to the two barrel carb,
you might find some issues with the cooling system given its age and how long she has been stored, I would plan on replacing the thermostat and possibly have the heat exchanger boiled out and pressure tested by an expert.

but for now get the thing in the water and run the shit out of her, find these issues and work thru them, you have a Kool ride there!

also with regards to the drive leg, you will want to replace both the exhast bellows and the U joint bellows as they have a short life span, loosing the important U joint seal will make you an out drive expert, not a good thing at this stage.
Steve
Monster garage photo.jpg
 
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skillett

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jun 11, 2009
115
19
Oxnard, Ca. U.S.A.
Name
Doug
Boat
25' Skipjack Sportsman
Yeah I will, they look like this:

View attachment 549553

It's crazy you don't have any scuppers. The kind I have are simple, but a pain in the ass to install.
Cool....Ill have to see.them installed. Do you have a lil well in the corners against the transome on either side? My boat has had many owners.before me and I think none of them should have bought a boat....unfortunately I am repairing what others have fixed...
 

PassTheSoySauce

Well-Known "Member"
Jun 24, 2014
88
40
37
Name
Brandon Brooks
Boat
1978 Fiber Form Custom
Great project and good luck to you.
I have resuscitated a number of projects like your Fiberform. in fact, we have done a F/F 28

If I were launching your project, I would, Replace both the risers and [manifolds], debris settling in the passages will always reduce cooling, and more importantly they have suffered the same time limits the risers have. We don't even look at them, having tried the cleaning route only to be disappointed many times, the gasket surfaces are the first to go, becoming so thin, no gasket can maintain a seal. When this seal goes away the motor will ingest water.

We also will Replace the raw water pump with the larger pump that is used on the 454 big block, its taller with a bit more volume. Volvos are inherently small raw water pumps, compare them to Mercury's. I think this is a bigger is better deal.

I would also replace the fuel lift pump with new. as for the cap and rotor, I would convert the trigger system to a point less magnetic trigger AKA Pertronics system. this eliminates the inline resistor wire that can be problematic. you run the mag trigger at full 12 volts.

by the photos your Volvo looks like a 305 CI due to the two barrel carb,
you might find some issues with the cooling system given its age and how long she has been stored, I would plan on replacing the thermostat and possibly have the heat exchanger boiled out and pressure tested by an expert.

but for now get the thing in the water and run the shit out of her, find these issues and work thru them, you have a Kool ride there!

also with regards to the drive leg, you will want to replace both the exhast bellows and the U joint bellows as they have a short life span, loosing the important U joint seal will make you an out drive expert, not a good thing at this stage.
Steve
View attachment 549587
Thank you for the tips! I am having cooling issues, I attributed it to the new raw water pump not getting enough water from the rabbit ears. I could feel the water, along with air, spurting through all hoses. Water was also flushing in spurts directly from the pump when I loosened the hose.

I would love to replace the manifolds, and plan on replacing them within a year. Unfortunately we have neared our total budget for now. It's not so bad considering we bought the boat a year ahead of schedule :)

I also need to tap out a broken off bolt in the center of my 6 connection bolts on my port side exhaust manifold. No leaks thanks to the other 5 though. But I would like to fix that before I put her in water. Also I need to fix 1 long bolt on EACH of my risers, the bolts aren't biting into the mounts on the exhaust manifolds. One began to weep a bit when I fired it up. I drained the cooling system immediately after the discovery. Anyone know someone? Preferably mobile!
 

40Grit

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 9, 2009
714
337
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat
Radovich 34
Volvos are notorious for poor pick up thru the leg... disconnect the intake, and clamp the hose directly to it. inside the boat, check your impeller as even a little time without water will smoke them,
for some reason they will work when submerged but not well with rabbit ears? keep picking away, as for the mani bold you might have to bring it to someone, not the end of the world but thats what your up aginst with your old timer, also Fiber forms were old style fuses get rid of that shit asap

B
 

Slater

cuss on Monday,pray on Sunday,dream about one day
Jun 1, 2006
4,398
1,084
47
Lakeside
Name
Rob
Boat
sold! / cattle boat
Your 6 connections bolts? You have a broken exhaust manifold bolt that attaches the manifold to the head? Assuming it broke flush with the head surface. Going to need to take the exhaust manifold back off & shouldn't re-use the gaskets. Going to need to drill a center hole in the broken bolt & extract the bolt with a easy-out or similar extractor. Or attempt to weld a nut onto the broken bolt & remove it by turning the nut. It will best to try & remove the broken bolt vs just drilling & using an helicoil. Shouldnt even use a helicoil as a time-sert is a better method of repair. As far as your riser bolt not gabbing is the riser bolt threads worn or is the manifold thread area stripped-out? I drill & extract broken bolts all day long as part of my job...
You bust an extractor in the bolt, you're done...
Also could make matters worse if this isn't your cup of tea, starting the initial hole off-center & needing a larger extractor cuz the bolt is seized in the head due to years & years of salt water exposure, etc..
 

Slater

cuss on Monday,pray on Sunday,dream about one day
Jun 1, 2006
4,398
1,084
47
Lakeside
Name
Rob
Boat
sold! / cattle boat
Cobalt bit.....be very very careful.
Right, I start with 1/8inch drill bits & a matching extractor. Go up from there if the bolt won't budge...
Very important to drill straight, steady pressure & SLOW! If you're not pulling metal, stop...
If seized try some pb blaster or any penetrating oil, apply heat with a torch to the head surface without the extractor installed! Also had some luck applying heat to the head & then cooling the broken bolt by zapping it with a shot of brake cleaner... Obviously this is only of it's really seized in the head.
Assuming it is, Did it break while removing the bolt or was the bolt head missing prior to removing the manifold which would indicate the exhaust manifold is warped & the initial reason the bolt broke...
 
Last edited:

skillett

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jun 11, 2009
115
19
Oxnard, Ca. U.S.A.
Name
Doug
Boat
25' Skipjack Sportsman
Got it....thanks! I think I have the outter part on a shelf. Ill have to get the tube part that goes thru the transom...
 

PassTheSoySauce

Well-Known "Member"
Jun 24, 2014
88
40
37
Name
Brandon Brooks
Boat
1978 Fiber Form Custom
Here's two shots of the flap style...reminder, I have yet to clean/detail the boat!

View attachment 549722

View attachment 549723
Cool....Ill have to see.them installed. Do you have a lil well in the corners against the transome on either side? My boat has had many owners.before me and I think none of them should have bought a boat....unfortunately I am repairing what others have fixed...
I will post pictures next time I get to the boat. I don't have wells in the back corners like you do, in my case water flows directly to the stern through similar channels and then directly through the valves in the transom. Overflow heads down below the engine and out through the bilge.
 

pierguy

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Mar 21, 2003
217
2
117
Northridge
momentoffame.com
Name
Dave
Boat
25' Farallon Whaleback Pilot- "REEL UP"
Yup, closer to 44 on a nice flat pond to the Coronado's in no time with the duo-props.
 

PassTheSoySauce

Well-Known "Member"
Jun 24, 2014
88
40
37
Name
Brandon Brooks
Boat
1978 Fiber Form Custom

Nice Boat! I believe that is the exact same boat that I have. The original paperwork lists the engine as a 350, but yes it has a 2 barrel carb.

You had mentioned replacing the u joint bellows on my outdrive. What is the difficulty level in replacing both of those? I believe I have a brand new set of exhaust bellows, but i'm not exactly sure where they are located. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

I will be working on her this thursday so I will post some pictures. I am hoping to get the new steering system installed as well as the fish finder that a buddy gave me.
 
Last edited:

40Grit

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Sep 9, 2009
714
337
Newport Beach California
Name
Steve Brown
Boat
Radovich 34
You will need to remove the drive leg, this is where your going to get challenged, these things are a bitch if crusty. the bellows is inside the leg and connects to the transom shield, the U joint also is in the same location. and while your at it change the shift cable. and the raw water pick up tube, once you get the thing off and can inspect these components it will become apparent whats going on.

Steve
 
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PassTheSoySauce

Well-Known "Member"
Jun 24, 2014
88
40
37
Name
Brandon Brooks
Boat
1978 Fiber Form Custom
Ok,

So I went down the other day and replaced my helm and cable as well as installed a new steering mount onto the outdrive(interior). There are some pics of the new helm attached. I also got started dismantling the exhaust manifold on the left side so that I can remove the broken off bolt that is stuck in the head. I also attached some pictures of the bolt. it only sticks out roughly 1/4 inch and cant be gripped with pliers, so I purchased a couple different bolt extraction kits and a lefty drill bit. I hope to get that out next week when my new bolts for the riser and manifold arrive.

I inspected both of the Bellows, and they are in prefect shape. I have replacements on hand, but the previous owner said he had replaced them before last storing the boat so I think things will be good. I tightened the clamps and the rubber seems to be in good shape. All of the other components looked good as well. While down there I pumped grease into the nipples and double checked fluid levels. all looked good.

I will take some more pictures once I get back to work on her next week.

IMG_0741.JPG


IMG_0742.JPG


IMG_0739.JPG
 

PassTheSoySauce

Well-Known "Member"
Jun 24, 2014
88
40
37
Name
Brandon Brooks
Boat
1978 Fiber Form Custom
Cool....Ill have to see.them installed. Do you have a lil well in the corners against the transome on either side? My boat has had many owners.before me and I think none of them should have bought a boat....unfortunately I am repairing what others have fixed...
So I was able to take a picture of the inside of my drain. It looks just like yours with the small well for water to drain to. I want to figure out if there is another way to install an actual scupper instead of the flapper valves it is currently set up to accomadoate. The tube that goes through the fiberglass hull is split with a 1 inch gap between them. Not an easy fix I am guessing. Anyone have any ideas?

IMG_0739.JPG
 

Slater

cuss on Monday,pray on Sunday,dream about one day
Jun 1, 2006
4,398
1,084
47
Lakeside
Name
Rob
Boat
sold! / cattle boat
Don't see a pic of the head with the broken bolt..
If its really sticking out 1/4 of an inch you should be able to clamp down on it with some vice grips. Also cuz its sticking out if vicegrips don't work getting a nut big enough for the broken bolt to be recessed into the nut & then welding the nut to the broken bolt may be easier as if she is really seized in there the major heat penetration from the welder usually helps getting them loose...
 
Last edited:

PassTheSoySauce

Well-Known "Member"
Jun 24, 2014
88
40
37
Name
Brandon Brooks
Boat
1978 Fiber Form Custom
sorry, all of my pictures arent loading. lets try this again...

IMG_0743.JPG


IMG_0744.JPG
 

skillett

I've posted enough I should edit this section
Jun 11, 2009
115
19
Oxnard, Ca. U.S.A.
Name
Doug
Boat
25' Skipjack Sportsman
Soak that bad boy with some PBBlaster for a day...heat it with a mapp gas torch (mapp isn't as hot as it once was) and either clamp with vice grips or welding a nut on it is a great idea (Rob).
On the scupper issue....I have the same double hollow wall configuration. Im thinking a thru hull/transom fitting? Gotta get inventive at the plumbing store... one of my little wells has been cut out leaving a hole for water to enter the hull, above the stringer, where it sits to rot away....gotta pull the motor sometime and address that sooner than I will...lol. thanks for the pics.
 
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