1970 Skipjack Open

Discussion in 'Check Out My Boat Customization' started by K-Dogg, Jan 6, 2019.

  1. HOOKNBOOK

    HOOKNBOOK yeah...whatever

    Location:
    Valencia, CA
    Name:
    Jon
    Boat:
    2013 Parker 2120 SC
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    Ken, this Skippie is looking awesome! I had a 20' Open many years ago, they are tough and serious sleds. My $.02 on the fish box question: go with kill bags. Maybe engineer some dry storage below deck, but skip the fish box. Kill bags are easily stowed when not in use, easily cleaned after use. Either way, I enjoyed reading about your build so far. You have a vision and it's really taking shape!
     
  2. tuna taxi

    tuna taxi Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    90650
    Name:
    Jorge
    Boat:
    20' Skipjack
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    Do you happen to know what the overall height is in the stringers? I have a few things left to do on my 20 before I start glassing in some new stringers but I want to make it self bailing.
     
  3. K-Dogg

    K-Dogg Newbie

    Location:
    Oregon
    Name:
    Ken
    Boat:
    Skipjack 20 Open
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    I don’t know how high my stringers are, but I do know that my deck was below the waterline. I’ve heard that raising the stringers 3” can produce a self-bailing deck with a floatation (offshore) bracket.

    We didn’t need to tear out the entire stringer system, just the transom and slightly above the forward motor mount. I’ve considered ping pong ball scuppers, but I worry about failure. We put garboard plugs on each side of the keel that will pump automatically when needed.

    I did run across an interesting product that screws into a standard garboard plug and acts as a ping pong ball scupper. I worry about something (seaweed, scales, blood/fish parts or line) plugging up the ball mechanism if it finds its way into the bilge. The product is called Versiplug and they seem to be popular with personal watercraft. I’m skeptical they would work well on my boat, but may give them a try if my pumps can’t handle what little water washes off the deck.

    Here is a link to their website and a YouTube video that shows how easy it would be to install them in a standard garboard plug. I wonder if BD members have used them with success?

    https://www.pwcdoctor.com/store/standard-threaded-boat-plug-12-npt



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  4. K-Dogg

    K-Dogg Newbie

    Location:
    Oregon
    Name:
    Ken
    Boat:
    Skipjack 20 Open
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    The deck drains showed up today. They are very nice castings, better quality than I had expected. The top surface is just a tick under 3" so they will mount into the new formed side gutter area quite nicely.

    upload_2019-2-14_18-59-29.jpeg

    Also, pictures show the 1 1/2" copper pipe for the fuel fill which is under the deck and extends up to the starboard side deck, as does the vent tube which is also copper. So this shouldn’t be a problem with the new aluminum tank design.

    upload_2019-2-14_19-0-31.jpeg

    upload_2019-2-14_19-0-53.jpeg
     
  5. K-Dogg

    K-Dogg Newbie

    Location:
    Oregon
    Name:
    Ken
    Boat:
    Skipjack 20 Open
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    The boat was taken into the aluminum fabrication shop yesterday and I received a quote for a custom marine fuel tank. The dimensions were close to what I thought we could get out of the space we have available. 72” L x 24” W x 9 1/2” H along the sides and 10 1/2” along the keel. The plan is to rest the tank on a piece of rubber and lag bolts the tank’s custom flanges to the stringers.

    upload_2019-2-19_20-41-22.jpeg

    I have the option to double vent the new tank to prevent vapor lock for an extra cost of $75. The original tank had a single vent so a double vent might not be necessary and could be overkill. Hopefully someone on BD watching the thread can comment.

    The other question I have is about corrosion prevention. I have read that coal tar or two part epoxies are used to coat the fuel tank. I don’t plan on foaming in or around the tank, but I don’t know if we should coat the exterior of the tank with a preventative coating?

    I’ve also heard of using a zinc chromate primer on bare aluminum boat hulls and then paint over several coats of primer with a high quality boat bottom paint. This theoretically would protect the aluminum in a salt water environment. Can anyone comment?

    Finally, the tank is estimated to cost just under $1,050 without a second vent, priming or painting. Thoughts on whether this is a competitive quote?
     
  6. rowdyrosco

    rowdyrosco sancho

    Location:
    PSL
    Name:
    ross
    Boat:
    Skipjack 20
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    That is a competitive price for that tank, you only need 1 vent. I would recommend skipping the sending unit, I think all outboard manufactures have options for fuel management. A sending unit should have an inspection hatch, those always leak which will rot your tank with that design.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2019
  7. karlow

    karlow Twins 2017

    Location:
    Duarte/Covina
    Name:
    karl
    Boat:
    20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
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    As for the finish, I'm not sure what you should do, but this is what I have done on two tanks. I used a KBS kit. I thinks its the frame coater kit for about $70. It's everything u need to finish a AL tank. I did the Skippy over 10 years ago, and the Outrage last year. So fare so good. A SkipJack tank should remain dry if the deck remains sealed and the bulge is kept reasonably dry. With a Outrage, I'm not so lucky. The tank install is a poor design. Not so dry. I foamed them both. With the painted finish I felt that the additional support that the foam supplies is more important then the possible water entrapment issue. All things is life is a trade off, only time will tell if this is a good choice. On the 85 SkipJack the deck was not sealed when I got her and the tank failed about 11 years ago. Maybe 2009, it lasted about 25 years, not bad for a unfinished tank.
     
  8. killinfish

    killinfish Newbie

    Location:
    Dana Point
    Name:
    CJ
    Boat:
    21' custom Skippy
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    Hmmmm have you thought about putting in a pre fabricated plastic tank? That’s what I’m thinking about for my next skippy build. No corrosion, no rot, you will just have to get creative on mounting it.. There are a couple manufacturers if you search around you can find quiet a few interesting shapes to work.
     
  9. K-Dogg

    K-Dogg Newbie

    Location:
    Oregon
    Name:
    Ken
    Boat:
    Skipjack 20 Open
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    I looked at Moeller poly tanks but I can get more fuel capacity with a custom aluminum tank in the available space. The technical dimensions of the 52 gallon tank shows that we need 12” overall height which I don’t have.
     
  10. K-Dogg

    K-Dogg Newbie

    Location:
    Oregon
    Name:
    Ken
    Boat:
    Skipjack 20 Open
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    upload_2019-2-20_6-35-8.jpeg

    I ran my tank dimensions through this handy fuel tank capacity estimator: https://www.sptanks.com/belly-tank.php and found that the custom tank should hold roughly 78 gallons of fuel. Moeller only makes one tank that would fit the space and it only holds 52 gallons. The extra 26 gallons of fuel allows me to fish further offshore and could be a selling point if/when I sell the boat in the future.

    upload_2019-2-20_6-35-53.jpeg
     
    Kingfisher13 likes this.
  11. willit float

    willit float Member

    Location:
    South Cal
    Name:
    Em
    Boat:
    20' Livesay Offshore Utility
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    Moeller had a FT6303-1 that was a 63 gallon I almost went with but instead opted for the FT4704 that is 47 gallons. I liked the ldea of less weight and better turn over in the fuel in the tank....and keeps me closer to shore :).
     
  12. K-Dogg

    K-Dogg Newbie

    Location:
    Oregon
    Name:
    Ken
    Boat:
    Skipjack 20 Open
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    Things are progressing nicely as of late. The 75 gallon tank materials arrive at Tarheel Aluminum last Friday, 3/1. The Tarheel Boys (Kyle and Tony) are super helpful, knowledgeable and exited to help me restore the boat. Hopefully the tank will be ready by next Tuesday. Tony has agreed to take pictures and videos of the build so I can share them with the BD community! You can checkout some of their work on their website: https://www.tarheelaluminum.com if you’re in my neck of the woods at the link above.

    The deck is in the process of getting glassed back down, stress cracks and fractures are being prepared for repair and primer/paint. When prepping the rear deck where the fiberglass engine vent was, my builder discovered the underside of the rear deck was a piece of particle board coated with fiberglass resin which was crumbling away. The vent has been removed, marine ply added so we can reinstall the flush mount rod holders and railing. Here are a few pictures of the repair.

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  13. stank

    stank Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Norwalk, CA
    Name:
    Dave
    Boat:
    None
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    Moving along nicely...
     
  14. tbev

    tbev Newbie

    Location:
    SoCal
    Name:
    tom
    Boat:
    Skipjack 24
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    Looks great ! I just finished up the same, well,similar, mission. A huge rainbow aching across the bottom of the ramp at Dana was how I found out about the split seam in my 1970 Flybridge. I'll share some pics with you tomorrow I gotta go to bed, early dive tomorrow to drop my prop off for a new hub. Wish I would have tossed my pos outdrive a long time, and a pile of cash, ago.

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    bman440440 likes this.
  15. K-Dogg

    K-Dogg Newbie

    Location:
    Oregon
    Name:
    Ken
    Boat:
    Skipjack 20 Open
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    So things are moving along quite nicely after a near heart attack! My boat builder w/ +40 years of experience recommended a high quality automotive industrial PPG paint that was super expensive and would have cost $585 per/gallon. With all of the additives just the material was going to be $1,289.65!

    upload_2019-3-8_6-47-54.jpeg

    Rather than use PPG paint we went to a Nason paint and dropped the material cost down to $532.19. We’re going with a Toyota 040 white paint color code so we can have a standard color if/when the boat needs to be repaired. We had looked at Pettit’s EZ marine grade epoxy paints plus an additive (harder and glossing agent) which might be more forgiving, but my builder insisted on using a high(er) quality urethane

    upload_2019-3-8_6-59-6.jpeg

    The Tarheel Aluminum Guy’s completed the fuel tank yesterday and we have an Englund Marine order for PPG’s Low Temperature epoxy primer which is what we’re are going to coat the tank with before we re-install the 75 gallon tank back into the boat.

    upload_2019-3-8_7-2-8.jpeg

    I sent my boat builder an e-mail last night a couple links about getting the most out of your fuel tank to insure that you maximize it’s life and don’t have to pay another $1250 in a couple of years when the tank corrodes do to poor installation.

    Tarheel said they can get rubber for the keel and said that adding rubber to the sides of the tank might not be a bad idea either. I found a few articles online (links below) that have strong opinions about using 3M’s 5200 marine sealant and the use of rubber strips on the bottom of the tank. Who knows what is best... So much conflicting information about the “do’s and do not’s” of tank installation has got my head spinning. I’m sure we’ll be fine with the Amercoat primer, rubber strips, air vents, supporting and securing the tank, so the tank will last longer than the boat.

    https://www.yachtsurvey.com/fueltank.htm

    https://stevedmarineconsulting.com/fuel-tank-installation

    Let me know if you have anything to say about any of the above especially if you have a tank in a Skipjack 20 Open that sits in a bilge where saltwater and ongoing moisture is guaranteed to be present for the life of the boat!
     
    bman440440 likes this.
  16. C.Bergs

    C.Bergs Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    Marina del Rey
    Name:
    Cory
    Boat:
    Skipjack 24 Open - Pau Hana
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    Just dumped a new fuel tank from Berry Sheet Metal (Cliff is great) in my 24 Open. After spending way too many hours talking to people about the "right" way to install, I went with Skipjack's advice - foam the thing in again. We put a half inch strip of cork on the keel and 5200 it down. Foamed the shit out of the compartment, including the two inlets to the bilge. Dropped the tank in and bolted through the stringer (this was all very meticulously pre-drilled and measured out prior). The tank from Berry's had vertical brackets. We used treated lumber shims coated in 5200 between the bracket and stringer. I shimmied through the bilge and sealed the other side of the inlet from the bilge to the fuel compartment with tar - no moisture getting in anymore. While I understand many people will think this is a big no-no with the foam, and I totally get it, the previous tank lasted 40 years with all the moisture from the bilge. I plan on using an absurd amount of 4200 the hatch to the compartment.
     
  17. K-Dogg

    K-Dogg Newbie

    Location:
    Oregon
    Name:
    Ken
    Boat:
    Skipjack 20 Open
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    Here is the tank build pictures from Tony at Tarheel Aluminum. I’m sure we’ll figure out a solution to secure and prevent corrosion despite the fact that the tank will sit in an area that has moisture nearly year round. I highly doubt we will be using foam in the installation since we haven’t found any in the boat.

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    bman440440 likes this.
  18. willit float

    willit float Member

    Location:
    South Cal
    Name:
    Em
    Boat:
    20' Livesay Offshore Utility
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    Damn Skippy looking tank.
    I installed a center belly tank into my 20’ Livesay. Ordered 1/4” thick runs of neoprene rubber 3” wide seems like 50’ long or something I’d have to pull the record on it to be sure. Then it was secured to the bottom of the tank with 5200 and lots of it, 4200 uv might work also if in doubt call 3M tech support hotline they are great. You can buy tubes for use with caulking gun on eBay. I made sure to coat the entire strip to prevent water getting between the tank and rubber they were glued to the tank. I spaced the strips pretty close together and made sure none would cause bilge water to get trapped.
    Looking good!
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2019
  19. tbev

    tbev Newbie

    Location:
    SoCal
    Name:
    tom
    Boat:
    Skipjack 24
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    Looks great !
     
  20. karlow

    karlow Twins 2017

    Location:
    Duarte/Covina
    Name:
    karl
    Boat:
    20' skippy Topless /17' whaler Wet Ride (sold) /18' Outrage
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    Here is 2 cents for you if it's too late.
    Do not attach any copper to your aluminum in any location that will get wet. Do not sit it on treated wood (the green stuff) it contains copper. Also avoid attaching any SS to your aluminum where it will be wet. You might want to paint you grounding connections with liquid tape, 5200 or something to keep it dry (I forgot to do that on mine). If you fail to do as instructed, note your aluminum will sacrifice itself to protect most metals except magnesium. That is why it needs to be high and dry. That is also why you should not use most anti fowl paints on your out-dive or outboard. They contain copper. Here is another thought on painting aluminum tanks. Its almost a great idea if you think about it. The parts that are fully painted are protected if the finish is intact and none water permeable. The problem is if some parts are unfinished and setting in the soup. Those unprotected sections will serve as sacrificial anodes to protect every other piece of metal in that soup! It effectively concentrates the effect into a smaller location. Zinc chromate primer will help because the zinc will sacrifice itself to protect other metals to some degree. Take a look at a Metal activity chart to see the problem. The further the two metals are apart on the chart the more corrosion will occur.
    [​IMG]
     

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