Spreader Bars

Discussion in 'Washington State' started by Cornfed, Mar 12, 2008.

  1. Cornfed

    Cornfed TEAM DEFIANCE/RAYMARINE

    Location:
    Seattle
    Name:
    TOMMY DONLIN
    Boat:
    DEFIANCE GUADALUPE 290 CORN.....
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    I would like to make some spreader bars for this next year. I have an idea of what has been done and what I would do, but I haven't seen the fine details discussed. Therefore, I have many questions regarding making and running spreader bars. Hopefully there are some guys out there that have input on the subject and can provide some clarity to the following:

    1. What unrigged bars do you like and where do you get them? cost?

    2. How wide of bars would you run for albies vs. BFT vs. YFT, etc? How many lines come off the bar? I have seen everything from 10i. bars to 42in. bars with as many as 5 lines coming off the bar.

    3. How far do you space the squid apart each other (longitudinally)? On a bar that has 5 lines, Do you change the spacing between the outer lines and inner lines?

    4. How far do you run the chasebait back from the last squid on the middle line? How about for daisy chains - how far do you run the chase bait back?

    5. What kind of squid do you run? bulb squid, laser squid, squid with no body to them? Where do you get them and cost?

    6. What color schemes do you run in the spread? Do you mix COLORS? Do you mix SIZES? In other words, could you run small on the outside and big on the inside? Around here, we would like to get into some BFTs so we would use the bigger squid. However if we have all large 10" squid out there, then we aren't going to catch that many albies, if any.

    7. A lot of guys will run 7 lines if they have outriggers and will run the 'W' pattern. Do you still do this with spreader bars and how do you mix in single lures and daisy chains into the mix?

    I know there are a lot of questions here, but I am just trying to generate some conversation and see where we can take this thing. You all know we have to add to our gear pile.
     
  2. johnnylite

    johnnylite Never too late to change.

    Location:
    Camarillo
    Name:
    John
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    Triumph 210cc
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    There was a thread on the east coast section about this. I also think there is a guy who makes and sells them.

    Found it . offthehooktackle.com
     
  3. Hunter III

    Hunter III Newbie

    Location:
    Massachusetts Northshore
    Name:
    Bart Waldo
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    29' TOPAZ HUNTER III
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    TG - I am going to a sbft trolling seminar this coming weekend - it's a two day affair that is put on by the top trolling boat on Cape Cod - hopefully I'll get an electronic copy of the seminar - if I do I'll forward the good stuff to you - as far as building your own rigs, it's fairly straight forward - all of mine are home made - titanium bars are the best choice - we typically use a 4' bar with a 45654 arrangement or a 343 arrangement - the spacing of the squid is based on the lentgh of the squid you are using - if you are trolling 13" squid, the spacing would be approximately 13" between each squid (some like a closer spacing, say 75% of the lentgh of the squid) - we like the Ocean Concept Shell Squids in the following colors #5, 17, #3, 104, 300, 27, & 067 - we usually set the squid up on 100 mono on the wings and 150 down the middle - most people run their stinger (hook bait) about 6' behind the last squid in the middle - the stinger is usually a color that directly contrasts with the main group - I run my bars as teasers and run my hook bait as a single squid which I trail behind the main group - the outriggers get complicated but you get to fight the fish with out having to deal with the bar - more to follow
     
  4. Mo

    Mo #1

    Location:
    east of the west coast...
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    Mo
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    Tommy, I am learning alot just reading your threads, hope we get to fish together sumtime. Keep up the good questions.
     
  5. N J Mello

    N J Mello Lead Dog

    Location:
    Hemet, CA
    Name:
    Neal J. Mello
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    21' Sea Ray 'MelloW DayZ"
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    I'd like to find out more about making/using spreader bars, too. Lots of obvious advantages. I have both outriggers and downriggers and would like to develop techniques using spreader bars on both (not necessarily using both at the same time). I can't see how using spreader bars on the downriggers would work around the kelp beds, but they sure would around the edges of floating pads. Any comments?
     
  6. IglooMan

    IglooMan Newbie

    Location:
    From La Paz, San Diego for Work...
    Name:
    Chris
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    Cabo 216, 38' Hatteras SF
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    Get Archer bars and save yourself the hassle of building your own. Archer and Bob Melville have spent way more time developing, testing, and proving their bars than you could imagine. They work really well, are easy to use, relatively cheap, and even for do-it-yourself'ers types they can still be fun... mixing and matching models and colors, running different sized weights in front of the spiders/dredges, etc etc...
     
  7. Cornfed

    Cornfed TEAM DEFIANCE/RAYMARINE

    Location:
    Seattle
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    TOMMY DONLIN
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    I may get a couple Archer bars as well, but I don't consider it a "hassle" to build my own. I consider it a pleasure. It means a little more to me when I build or rig something with my own two hands than just buying an off the shelf product. Fred has a great product and it may be 10 times better than what I am going to make. I will probably buy some Archer bars to run on port rigger and run mine on stbd rigger and do a side-by-side comparison. Catching fish trumps gear making so if his bars are marginally better, then I will be running Archer bars. I have no doubt that Fred and Bob spent numerous hours hashing out the fine details of the design, then building, testing, and proving their product. I know what the production cycle is all about and it is no easy process. They deserve all credit that has been given to them.

    How much $$$$ is a naked Archer Bar (that just doesn't sound right)???

    Would a plain (no squid attached) Archer Bar rigged by me be less effective than an archer bar rigged by Fred? I mean, the magic is in the bar itself, correct?
     
  8. Cornfed

    Cornfed TEAM DEFIANCE/RAYMARINE

    Location:
    Seattle
    Name:
    TOMMY DONLIN
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    I went to the website and I don't see any links to buy gear. Am I missing something?
     
  9. el capo

    el capo Member

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    El Mundo
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    miguel
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    Tommy,have your own bars made from SS with small rings welded on to attach the lines,not too expensive,but effective.
     
  10. Hunter III

    Hunter III Newbie

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    Bart Waldo
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    If you buy the right components a home made bar will out fish a store bought bar every time.
     
  11. Coho killer

    Coho killer Newbie

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    Marysville Wa
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    Jesse
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  12. Coho killer

    Coho killer Newbie

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    Marysville Wa
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    Jesse
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  13. marlyn

    marlyn Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    oak hills
    Name:
    mark
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    21' skiff and 12' portabote recycled from milk jugs
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    cornfeds got an albacore trollin stiffie dontcha?new toys comin at ya tommorrow tommie.me and my bottle of jd will see ya in august......
     
  14. iclypso

    iclypso Newbie

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    Dan
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    I emailed Bob and had a catalog in my mailbox the next day. Let me know if you'd like me to forward it to you. I was thinking of making my own bars out of nylon but I'm not sure just which material to use (I was looking on McMaster-Carr website). A word of warning: be careful if you google "spreader bars":Fondle:
     
  15. Moldy45

    Moldy45 azzole

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    Oregon
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    Bruce
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    you got a picture of one?
    I know I could weld one up
     
  16. marlyn

    marlyn Well-Known "Member"

    Location:
    oak hills
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    mark
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    now i GOTTA go google spreader bars.......
     
  17. Cornfed

    Cornfed TEAM DEFIANCE/RAYMARINE

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    TOMMY DONLIN
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  18. Chesapeake

    Chesapeake Newbie

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    Washougal, WA
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    Rick
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    The Bars we drag are home made except the bar itself. I bought them from Offshore Algler (basspro) (~$8) and made the rest myself.

    Our bars have a broom tail following the hoochies in the center and maybe 18" back from the last hoochy. They catch alot of fish but sometimes its a mess.

    We run them about 60' back off the corners. They make up the two points of our "W spread. We then run two daisy chains with birds back in the center, and fill the outer wings with chains and plain clones.

    On our trips last year we were plugging the boat with a little over 25 fish a trip. Purely a meat hunt and none of the casting and light gear play.

    Another thing we do is keep all our old herring from the last years, or current years salmon fishing. When we hook up we toss several hand fulls out. This seems to do well at keeping the fish on the surface so we can swing around and drag through them again and again. Somtimes the GPS screen ends up looking like a 2 year old with an Etch-o-Scetch.LOL

    We usualy drag 8 or 9 lines (outriggers) and with the bars and chains we need to keep moving forward to keep from making a mess.
     
  19. bugging57

    bugging57 Gone to another site

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    Just curious if Stainless tubing would work well? I can get 3/8" OD for $2 a foot. You could plug the ends and fill the tube with scent and have some drilled holes in the thing for releasing the scent. Just an idea.
     
  20. Lamna

    Lamna ....................

    Location:
    NorCal
    Name:
    Matt
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    21 Parker
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    If you use Archers bars (made of composite plastics) they are never a mess. I run feathers or hoochies about 18 inches back as well.
     

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