PE Line Rating

Discussion in 'Jigging and Popping' started by Tower Todd, Oct 6, 2010.

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  1. Tower Todd

    Does anyone have a PE Line Rating Conversion? I see that the high end jigging rods are rated like PE Rating 2-4 or 1-3. I'm not familiar with this rating system and am looking to see what these numbers mean and how it translates to line available in the US.

  2. jiggawhat

    all pe line ratings vary from manufacture. some pe4 goes to 90lbs.some break right at or under pe all depends on strands and quality of materials used.
  3. BillD32

    PE line is a system rating line based on diameter, rather than strength. Premium quality PE line will offer a higher breaking strength at a given PE rating. As a very rough estimate, just add a zero to the PE rating to get the breaking strength of the line, but most of the time the breaking strength of the line will be stated in addition to it's PE rating.
  4. johndtuttle

    I would say x10 then ~+10 to +20 (in the heavier lines) to the PE rating is more common with higher quality line so a PE-1-3 rod might be intended to be a 20-40lb rod or so given the varying quality of the lines.

    en regards to what it means on rods it's of course very similar to the "rated to 20-40lbs" that US Manufacturers put on their rods for the same sort of general "heaviness of action" indicator as above.

    In addition, the makers often have a "fighting drag" and "max drag" rating and a "45degree" (normal fighting position) and 90degree (high sticking rating, less than the 45degree rating) that are to keep you from breaking the rod. Usually they are conservative estimates but be advised, most non-domestic makers are semi-custom builders and do not warrant their rods forever like the best USA brands do. This is customary and is not remotely equated with quality, it's just that a super high quality build with low margins can't be replaced like Ugly Sticks (or Seekers) when you slam them in car doors (ie abuse them) as the VAST majority of breakage is user error.

    Asia uses PE to describe line rating as it tells a reel owner exactly how much will fit on his reel because it corresponds to a specific diameter, then when he is buying cheap he knows it breaks easier than more expensive line that fills his reel exactly the same. Instead, here, we have no idea what is going on when we get more of one company's 60lb on a reel than another's as they may be very different thicknesses. It has been described as a difference in marketing approach. In Asia they want the line to be perceived as identical in capacity with the better lines stronger for a given capacity (ie the "strongest line you can put 350 yards of on your reel"). In the USA they want their lines to be considered very strong for a given breakage rating (ie "the strongest 60lb line") and leave people in the dark about how much they can get on a reel.

    Last but not least is the gram rating which for popping rods means what weight lure the rod's are intended to load properly to cast, and for jigging rods the heaviest jig the rod can fish before it is overloaded but this last one is kinda user dependent as some guys like more whip from the rod during the retrieve than others when jigging.

    This of course may be more info than the OP was interested in, but as these questions come up frequently I included it for others reading the thread.
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2010
  5. nu2reels

    Wow, thorough.

    Here ya go.

    PE3 - 40
    PE4 -55
    PE5 - 70
    PE6 – 80
    PE8 – 100
    PE10 – 120
    PE12 - 150
  7. Capt. G

    For all intents and purposes, the PE "#" or "go" line rating has absolutely nothing to do with breaking strength.
    Since this is what you are asking about, the simple answer is to simply read the package, and it will list, in either "lbs." or "kg" the breaking strength of the line.

    There is no formula, or chart that will give you the conversions.
    Here are four types of PE line, by a single manufacturer, all size #3:
    1. 35 pounds
    2. 46 pounds
    3. 41 pounds
    4. 36 pounds

    I just selected them randomly, but I am sure you could find number 3 PE line that tests from #25 to #50.

    Since this is the jigging and popping forum, I took examples of line that is made specifically for this application.
    But that is a rather small portion of the types of PE line that are made.
    These specialty PE lines have even a wider range of breaking strengths for the same "gosu" (Pe #).
    Most, if not all of these "other" types of line are much more expensive than Jigging / Popping SW braids.
    "Ayu PE" line for ayu fishing is so spendy it is sold in 12 meter lengths. On hundred yards of this line would be about US$ 150.

    Specialty PE lines include, but are not limited to:
    1. Jigging / Popping
    2. Egging (aori squid)--these including both floating and suspending PE lines...
    3. FW Bass
    4. Raigyo/Snake heavy cover PE lines
    5. Nagetsuri PE lines for surfcasting/distance casting
    6. ayu tsuri / tomozuri PE lines.
    7. "Area Fishing" specialty PE lines for trout

    Other than that, I don't have a clue.
  8. Jig Strike

    50 cents per foot?:rofl:

    That is almost expensive enough to necessitate buying insurance against breakage.
  9. Tower Todd

    WOW! Little did I know. Very good descriptions and information. Thank You!

  10. johndtuttle

    so this is the well known table that we all know and love for guesstimating the strength but as CaptG points out breaking strength of course varies depending on the manufacturer and their quality standards.

    This chart gives you the true diameter of the lines which ties into the discussion in my above post. The numeric designation apparently is taken originally from the thickness of various silk fibers used in weaving from ancient times and the PE means "Poly Ethylene" as this is the material braided lines are constructed from. Us ignorant Barbarians use the conversion to pounds as we are accustomed to our method :D:


    So, you can take your favorite braid and see where it fits in this chart and get an idea of it's PE Rating. I'm pretty sure every spool of any kind of line has it's diameter on it.

    But then if you actually *test* your domestic line you may be shocked at the reality.

    For example take Jerry Brown Hollow 60. It has a listed diameter as 0.381mm which would make it PE6. O crap there goes our conversion table into pounds breaking strength cause that says it should break at ~80 and JB lists it as 60lbs test! Well, if you actually test JB 60 you find that it has an Actual Breaking Strength (ABS) of 92lbs....which would make it close to many PE8 lines.....O crap my brain hurts!

    PE ratings let you choose line that will fill your reel to a known capacity. Then if you can determine what it's ABS or the manufacturer is kind enough to provide it you know exactly what you are dealing with.
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2010
  11. Capt. G

    I did not really "point out" anything (just passed on some well established facts), but even if I had never fished PE line, i would be suspect with the above chart. Correct me if I am wrong, but if PE5 was seventy pound test, would it not follow that PE10 would be 140 lb. test? (since PE3 is 40, and PE6 is 80lb.)

    I think somebody was funning with you guys, and got you all to luv something both well known, and not even close to the truth.

    Hey, with PE6 wound on a 18K (not the price, but close) Stella, and a blank/rod that I designed, I cast a Runboh five casts for an average single cast of 126 yards.
    Disclaimer: The PE6, depending on mfg, could have been from 50 to 100 pound test.
  12. johndtuttle

    sorry g, my full post is fixed above, dunno what was up with the edit function this am.