Okuma Andros 511 Tutorial

Discussion in 'Okuma' started by ReelSpeed, Jan 28, 2011.

  1. ReelSpeed
    Offline

    Here are some pictures to start off with.. very nice looking reel and very smooth. Decent freespool throughout the drag range.. I am getting around 15 seconds out of the box.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Ok lets remove the screws... oh wait.. there is only one! Just like the old Jigmaster... This is a T10 torx head screw. And good news.. it is greased.
    [​IMG]
    After you remove the screw just turn the sideplate counter-clockwise and it should turn to open just like the jigmasters did...sometimes. :)
    [​IMG]
    Remove the frame and you will find a very light coat of grease/oil on the inside of the left side plate. Also a well greased clicker
    [​IMG]
    Also, this reel features a cast control on the left side plate. There is a spring where the spool shaft seats that seems to push the spool into the drag washer as a means of cast control.. ok. Probably not for me, but at least you can turn it completely off.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Next remove the reel seat screws. Also T10 head. Note the two screws on the bottom are longer than the two on top. Okuma seems to have gone the way of loctite on these, but I will be greasing them. There is grease on the frame and seat though.. so A+ for Okuma there.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Grease the screw holes & body foot and torque the screws down nice and tight.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I will also put a better coat of grease on the inside of the left sideplate.
    [​IMG]
    Ok, put that to the side and we are done there..
    Now on to the spool assembly.
    A light coat of grease of the bottom of the spool is a good thing.
    [​IMG]
    Remove the two phillips head screws attaching the clicker assembly on the left side.
    [​IMG]
    Loctite on these two screws is not the greatest thing. Having these get stuck would be a terrible problem for someone.
    [​IMG]
    Remove the shaft pin and don't lose it!
    [​IMG]
    Remove the c-clip on the shaft & the Belleville washers, they are configured ( )( ).
    [​IMG]
    Remove the drag knob assembly.
    [​IMG]
    Pull the spool assembly out. Open oiled spool bearing.. good start. Lightly greased drag washer... Check! The other spool bearing is still in the drag plate assembly. You can pull it out.
    [​IMG]
    Remove the Drag plate & Anti-Reverse mechanism. Here is an open, slightly greased bearing. Double dog anti-reverse is good. Nice washer to try and keep water intrusion out.. although unlikely to work...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Pull the shaft assembly out. This is the shaft with all components on it in case you get lost.
    [​IMG]
    Remove the Drag washer retainer
    [​IMG]
    remove the drag washer. There is a slot to stick small flathead in to pry the washer up. Be careful! It is pressed in well and at first I thought that Okuma had gone the way of Avet on gluing the drag washer! :( luckily it popped up and we have it lightly greased underneath.
    [​IMG]
    I am going to wipe off the OEM grease and put on a little thicker layer of Cal's drag grease.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Also, grease up both sides of the drag washer with Cal's and carefully re-install.
    [​IMG]
    Take a rag and wipe all the excess grease off the top of the washer.
    [​IMG]
    Re-install the wire retainer ring..
    [​IMG]


    So now we have one oiled open spool bearing, one closed greased spool bearing (Bottom) and one open greased spool bearing (top, drag). I will be cleaning these out with carb cleaner and adding TSI 301.


    Here is the bottom bearing.. had grease smeared on the outside, but when we open it up, it is like many others and has air gaps which will cause corrosion. I will be doing as Alan and lubing this with TSI301 so water can get in & OUT!
    [​IMG]
    FYI - I use a razor blade to get underneath the inside bearing shield and then use a little pick to pry the shield up.
    [​IMG]
    Next two, open oiled (right) & open greased (left). Clean these out and add TSI301.
    [​IMG]
    Now install the main shaft back into the spool. Spool spins around 60 seconds by itself now.
    [​IMG]
    Re-install the rubber O-ring and pin, grease the spool and screw back on the clicker assembly. Also grease these screw holes.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Ok, spool assembly is finished. Set it to the side.
    [​IMG]
    Carefully use a hook (or your tool of choice) to remove the retaining ring and remove the two speed button.
    [​IMG]
    Unscrew the two phillips screws holding the button housing on. Found more Loctite on these...
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I would recommend not trying to take the remaining nut off that you see... It is REALLY torqued down and you could do damage trying to remove... There is grease there so hopefully it will remain corrosion free underneath...


    Turn the sideplate over and remove the small phillips screw holding the gear cover on. More Loctite...
    [​IMG]
    Unless you have to, I recommend not trying to remove the next c-clip... but I will for the tutorial. ;) Be careful!
    [​IMG]
    Remove the two gears.
    [​IMG]
    Remove the square pin and plastic/metal washer
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Now you have a c-clip to remove. Again, tread carefully. Once removed the handle will pull out and you can get to the handle bearings.
    [​IMG]
    Now pull the handle bearings & sleeve.. we will open them up and check for grease.
    [​IMG]
    as suspected...very little. Lets repack these with your favorite marine grease and make them last a long time!
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Now remove the sideplate bearing. Lets see how much grease is really in there...
    [​IMG]
    as suspected...very little. Lets again repack these with your favorite marine grease and also add some grease to the bearing cup.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Now to finish the sideplate, I am going to add a nice coat of grease to the whole inside. Now to reassemble...
    [​IMG]
    Install the handle & shaft
    [​IMG]
    Next the c-clip, washer & key
    [​IMG]
    Install the high speed gear
    [​IMG]
    install the low speed gear & washer
    [​IMG]
    Install the c-clip
    [​IMG]
    grease the screw hole and install the gear cover.
    [​IMG]
    Flip it over and grease the area under the two speed housing
    [​IMG]
    Grease & install the speed change lever & housing. Also, lets grease the screws here are well.
    [​IMG]
    Grease the inside of the speed change housing and install the button top.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Flip it over, install the pinion gear, grease the anti-reverse and install it and the drag plate.
    [​IMG]
    This can be a little difficult, but line it up and make sure the pawls are on the anit-reverse gear.
    [​IMG]
    Now slide the spool shaft back into the sideplate. Make sure the bearing that goes in the drag plate, gets there..
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Grease under the lever arm.
    [​IMG]
    Put a little grease on the ratchet ball under the arm.
    [​IMG]
    With the lever drag in the free position, grease and install the drag knob assembly.
    [​IMG]
    Now lets connect the left side plate with the right side plate. Align the tabs , push together and turn clockwise till it locks.
    [​IMG]
    FYI – the drag lever needs to be in a “on” position (not freespool) for the spool to seat properly.
    [​IMG]
    Now that it is seated, last step is to grease and install the T10 single screw!
    [​IMG]
    And we are done!!


    But wait...and I am sure Alan would agree with me on this... no reel is truly complete without one of these!!!


    [​IMG]
  2. alantani
    Offline

    nicely done!
  3. hucklongfin
    Offline

    Great write up. Looks like a good reel too.
  4. ahistick
    Offline

    Very nice tutorial!
  5. moemoi
    Offline

    Great write up. Would you consider this a 25-30# reel?
  6. doughnut
    Offline

    well done sir!
  7. ReelSpeed
    Offline

    I will be interested to hear Alan's thoughts once he gets his reel. My personal thoughts are...

    Dislikes:
    I was hoping for a better job of greasing in the bearings out of the box. This is probably my biggest complaint with this reel. Because of this, I still would HIGHLY recommend a complete service prior to use for the best possible service life. Also, the many screws with loctite on them are asking to get locked up and cause some service guy a bunch of headaches.

    Likes: The reel is very light, which is a big plus. The reel seat design, is very smart to my eyes.. Good, strong, double dog anti-reverse. Ratcheting lever drag...a nice little feature. Okuma did take time to grease the insides of the sideplates, under the drag washer and also the reel seat; although I would have preferred a bit more, as the amount of grease seemed to be the least possible while saying "it is greased" from the factory. I LOVE the single screw takedown of the sideplate. So while you will need an initial comprehensive service.. the follow-up maintenance on this reel would actually be fairly easy and fast.. The stock handle is just okay (big plus for not being riveted on!), but that is easily fixed with one of Alan's handles. I need to get some line on it to test the drag ranges, but I will also be interested in seeing how changing the bellevilles might change the drag and also how the reel can handle it.

    This reel can probably be used in many situations.. The stock drag can handle a very wide range of line weights, but definitely is begging me to fill it up with some 60# JB Hollow. Just change your short topshot depending on the fishing situation.

    @moemoi - This reel would easily fish 25-30, but if you are using braid you can step it up a bit, just depends what fish you are targeting...

    With everything said, I think Okuma has a winner here and along with the Makaira line, should be considered a true competitor to what is currently available.

    That is.. until I get a chance to design my own reel.. then everyone else will be playing catch up!
  8. dan1
    Offline

    Very nice reel.

    How many color variations do they make? The picture from Okuma looks charcoal and copper. Yours look blue and copper.

    How does it crank with heavy drag? Any binding?

    Looking forward to the on water review.
  9. word-doctor
    Offline

    Very nice writeup and I reel I'm going to look hard at...
  10. word-doctor
    Offline

    Very nice writeup and I reel I'm going to look hard at...
  11. ReelSpeed
    Offline

    Just to add a little to this tutorial, today I threw on some 25# mono I had laying around to check a couple things...

    1. Freespool with 25# mono was right about 85 seconds with the drag set for the stock 15-16#'s at strike. Not too shabby..

    2. The cast control... This might be a fun reel for a beginner or someone learning to cast a conventional. With the cast control fully on, I pulled the rod till the drag started to slip at 15#'s and immediately threw it into freespool... without a birdsnest. I figured this would be the most extreme test for birdspooling. So throwing jigs would probably be a piece of cake... just don't know how far.

    Anyway, just a little more info to throw in there.

    Cheers!
  12. alantani
    Offline

    did you find the right main side plate bearing loading up at any point?
  13. ReelSpeed
    Offline

    Alan, with the strike set at 15#, when I cycled through the lowest to highest drag settings, there is a difference in handle pressure. :( Not as bad as the avet's IMO, but it is still there. There is not anything in the design to keep this from happening, soo... I will try and get a reading later tonight of where the binding starts on this reel and let you know.
  14. alantani
    Offline

    a friend owns a machine shop and we are going to try to mill out the avets to install bigger bearings and see if that helps. i also found some small thrust bearings and we'll see if it's got room for one of those as well.
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
  15. ReelSpeed
    Offline

    Alan, just got a chance to pull the rod out and pull on the drags a bit more.. Honestly, at 15#'s there is not much there.. I would say it starts to ramp up around 13-14# of drag and then from there it increases a little bit at each drag setting. It is kinda funny, at 14 you really cant tell much and then when you hit the 15 detent you start to feel it... So stating 15# at strike was probably about right..
    Then again, if we could work something out on a better solution, who knows how high we could get...

    Also, the bearing in the right side plate on the Andros is a 6x15x5mm bearing.
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2011
  16. alantani
    Offline

    so i'm thinking 300 yards of 50# spectra with short topshots of 30, 35 or 40# fluoro and 10-14#'s of drag.
  17. ReelSpeed
    Offline

    Alan, depending on what you have in mind for a topshot, I think you will get a lot more than 300 of 50# spectra.. I think the original specs were for 430 yards of 50# with no topshot..
  18. ReelSpeed
    Offline

    I was thinking about the binding on this reel and working over some solutions in my head and one of them worked decently. After a few different ideas, I tried putting a shim washer in front of the left spool bearing, after the bellevilles, to take some of the axial load off the inner bearing race...and then re-arranged the bellevilles to )(((|---> spool bearing and I am now pulling 18#'s of drag at strike with the same resistance as I had at 15 yesterday. and maintaining freespool. Now the 15# setting practically has no binding at all. Anyway, just thought I would share.. I am still thinking of possibilities to get rid of the binding altogether..
  19. alantani
    Offline

    so maybe 65# spectra, a short 50# fluoro topshot and 15#'s of drag.....

    there needs to one, better two, thrust washers to isolate the spool.
  20. ReelSpeed
    Offline

    Agreed Alan.. just need to find them small enough and a space to put them. I actually think on this particular reel, that any binding is not happening at the pinion gear bearing. With the two speed reel, if you look how the pinion gear sits, there is practically no room for the gear to move laterally into the bearing and exert a load...the hi-speed gear would get in the way. Interestingly though, I am noticing that when I feel any type of binding on the high speed gear, when I switch to low there is still almost no binding there... so that is a little interesting.

Share This Page