Here are some pictures to start off with.. very nice looking reel and very smooth. Decent freespool throughout the drag range.. I am getting around 15 seconds out of the box. Ok lets remove the screws... oh wait.. there is only one! Just like the old Jigmaster... This is a T10 torx head screw. And good news.. it is greased. After you remove the screw just turn the sideplate counter-clockwise and it should turn to open just like the jigmasters did...sometimes. Remove the frame and you will find a very light coat of grease/oil on the inside of the left side plate. Also a well greased clicker Also, this reel features a cast control on the left side plate. There is a spring where the spool shaft seats that seems to push the spool into the drag washer as a means of cast control.. ok. Probably not for me, but at least you can turn it completely off. Next remove the reel seat screws. Also T10 head. Note the two screws on the bottom are longer than the two on top. Okuma seems to have gone the way of loctite on these, but I will be greasing them. There is grease on the frame and seat though.. so A+ for Okuma there. Grease the screw holes & body foot and torque the screws down nice and tight. I will also put a better coat of grease on the inside of the left sideplate. Ok, put that to the side and we are done there.. Now on to the spool assembly. A light coat of grease of the bottom of the spool is a good thing. Remove the two phillips head screws attaching the clicker assembly on the left side. Loctite on these two screws is not the greatest thing. Having these get stuck would be a terrible problem for someone. Remove the shaft pin and don't lose it! Remove the c-clip on the shaft & the Belleville washers, they are configured ( )( ). Remove the drag knob assembly. Pull the spool assembly out. Open oiled spool bearing.. good start. Lightly greased drag washer... Check! The other spool bearing is still in the drag plate assembly. You can pull it out. Remove the Drag plate & Anti-Reverse mechanism. Here is an open, slightly greased bearing. Double dog anti-reverse is good. Nice washer to try and keep water intrusion out.. although unlikely to work... Pull the shaft assembly out. This is the shaft with all components on it in case you get lost. Remove the Drag washer retainer remove the drag washer. There is a slot to stick small flathead in to pry the washer up. Be careful! It is pressed in well and at first I thought that Okuma had gone the way of Avet on gluing the drag washer! luckily it popped up and we have it lightly greased underneath. I am going to wipe off the OEM grease and put on a little thicker layer of Cal's drag grease. Also, grease up both sides of the drag washer with Cal's and carefully re-install. Take a rag and wipe all the excess grease off the top of the washer. Re-install the wire retainer ring.. So now we have one oiled open spool bearing, one closed greased spool bearing (Bottom) and one open greased spool bearing (top, drag). I will be cleaning these out with carb cleaner and adding TSI 301. Here is the bottom bearing.. had grease smeared on the outside, but when we open it up, it is like many others and has air gaps which will cause corrosion. I will be doing as Alan and lubing this with TSI301 so water can get in & OUT! FYI - I use a razor blade to get underneath the inside bearing shield and then use a little pick to pry the shield up. Next two, open oiled (right) & open greased (left). Clean these out and add TSI301. Now install the main shaft back into the spool. Spool spins around 60 seconds by itself now. Re-install the rubber O-ring and pin, grease the spool and screw back on the clicker assembly. Also grease these screw holes. Ok, spool assembly is finished. Set it to the side. Carefully use a hook (or your tool of choice) to remove the retaining ring and remove the two speed button. Unscrew the two phillips screws holding the button housing on. Found more Loctite on these... I would recommend not trying to take the remaining nut off that you see... It is REALLY torqued down and you could do damage trying to remove... There is grease there so hopefully it will remain corrosion free underneath... Turn the sideplate over and remove the small phillips screw holding the gear cover on. More Loctite... Unless you have to, I recommend not trying to remove the next c-clip... but I will for the tutorial. Be careful! Remove the two gears. Remove the square pin and plastic/metal washer Now you have a c-clip to remove. Again, tread carefully. Once removed the handle will pull out and you can get to the handle bearings. Now pull the handle bearings & sleeve.. we will open them up and check for grease. as suspected...very little. Lets repack these with your favorite marine grease and make them last a long time! Now remove the sideplate bearing. Lets see how much grease is really in there... as suspected...very little. Lets again repack these with your favorite marine grease and also add some grease to the bearing cup. Now to finish the sideplate, I am going to add a nice coat of grease to the whole inside. Now to reassemble... Install the handle & shaft Next the c-clip, washer & key Install the high speed gear install the low speed gear & washer Install the c-clip grease the screw hole and install the gear cover. Flip it over and grease the area under the two speed housing Grease & install the speed change lever & housing. Also, lets grease the screws here are well. Grease the inside of the speed change housing and install the button top. Flip it over, install the pinion gear, grease the anti-reverse and install it and the drag plate. This can be a little difficult, but line it up and make sure the pawls are on the anit-reverse gear. Now slide the spool shaft back into the sideplate. Make sure the bearing that goes in the drag plate, gets there.. Grease under the lever arm. Put a little grease on the ratchet ball under the arm. With the lever drag in the free position, grease and install the drag knob assembly. Now lets connect the left side plate with the right side plate. Align the tabs , push together and turn clockwise till it locks. FYI â the drag lever needs to be in a âonâ position (not freespool) for the spool to seat properly. Now that it is seated, last step is to grease and install the T10 single screw! And we are done!! But wait...and I am sure Alan would agree with me on this... no reel is truly complete without one of these!!!