Fairing Block Install

Discussion in 'Boat Electronics' started by Captain Scottie, Mar 25, 2008.

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  1. Captain Scottie
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    I will be hauling out my boat for bottom paint in about three weeks. At this time I want to install a transducer and am not sure about how a fairing block is installed. Is this a "pro" only job or something I could tackle myself? I will be installing just the transducer if my bottom is flat, not sure if it is yet as this is my first haul out.

    I have a 28' Slickcraft w' two direct drive inboards. Perhaps some of the bottom area is flat...
  2. Captain Scottie
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    UPDATE: Found some photos of someone elses boat and it is not flat anywhere, I will need to use a fairing block.
  3. ConSeaMate
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    High speed fairing block.........easy to cut.......just make sure you have the correct angle.......then I used 5200 to seal it.....been there for 6 years.....no leaking.....
  4. Balluga
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    boat yard workers hate 5200...you will need a sledgehammer to get the transducer loose...they recommend BoatLife or 4200 so that it can be changed out when you want to upgrade or change it out someday...
  5. Blackjack
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    Check with your yard, but some will not let you do work below the water line. For liability reasons. I second 4200 for your ducer. You can alway look at the airmar tilted element transducers if you don't want to use a faring block.
  6. Captain Scottie
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    I'm using Marina Shipyard in LB, they said I can do the work. I have the fairing block and the instructions, piece-o-cake. I will research the 4200/5200 a bit though, thanks for the suggestions...
  7. lokegirl48
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    5200 is for non-removable things only. Use 4200 in case you have to remove it as was mentioned above. High speed fairing block will help prevent cavitation and give you clean water for the best pic. Be very careful, the block will be marked forward and measure the angle twice, cut once. Get expert guidence about placement, if you put it too close to props, keel, rudders, etc you can have problems.
  8. piperca
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    I've got mine pretty close to the keel, within 6" or so. What kind of problems are you talking about?