Didn't sand the blank before reel seat install

Discussion in 'Rod Building' started by STxFisherman, Mar 8, 2008.

  1. STxFisherman
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    I am building a spiral wrap rod for jigging. I just epoxied the reel seat onto the rod today and read about sanding the blank prior to the install. I used masking tape to seat the reel onto the blank...cut 1/4 inch grooves in the masking tape to allow the epoxy to flow through the entire reel seat. I did not however sand the blank down before installing the reel seat. Am I going to hugely regret this???

    I built a rod about 20 years ago....this is my first attempt at building a rod since then.
  2. el capo
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    It wont be the end of the world.
  3. 1:11
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    the heavier the load on the rod, the more this will come into play. If you will be fishing 30lb or lighter, i doubt it would be an issue. If your masking tape job was good and the blank was not solied with too many oils, and the epoxy was mixed and applied properly (completely fills the inside diameter w/ epoxy no sag spots, then it will most likely have no effect. I wouldnt even worry about it, if it fails then you'll know. From now on sand, and use a cloth to prep area.
  4. STxFisherman
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    Thanks for the info. I did fill the reel seat area with lots of epoxy and the channels that I cut out of the masking tape probably allowed it to fill in with no air pockets.
    I hope that's the case....

    Funny thing is....I'm building this rod specifically for jigging large AJ's. It's an 80 lb. blank and I'm putting a Accurate 665NN on it. If it breaks under pressure from a big AJ....I'm gonna have some fun bringing it to the boat....Live and learn I suppose.
  5. Capt. G
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    I have built and sold over five thousand "Downwrap" or spriral wrap here in Japan. We do not sand the blanks down (we use blanks built with many materials, from Old school glass to high tech 120ton Mitsubishi Carbon). We goove masking tape, and
    epoxy (not 5 min. type though, usually a 24 hr. set type) just like you did. We have never had a single problem. It sound like you were careful putting the RS on, so you should be OK. If you want insurance drip some epoxy in the space between the last 1/4 inch at the top of the RS and the blank. if there is tape in the space, cut it out with a razor blade, and remove with a dental pick, or even a wide gap fishing hook.
    This will give you a little cap of direct blank to reel seat epoxy filler before you slide your foregrip down.
    I just read what I wrote above. It makes absolutely no sense to me, but I hope it helps you.
  6. flamekeeper
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    ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
    You say you cut channels into the masking tape??..
    Am I right?.
    Did you make a solid arbor out of tape then cut groves into it? All the way to the blank?.and then filled with epoxie?.
    It might take quite awhile ,but the glue on the tape will sooner or later dry out ETC.. then you know what will happen next.
    But I'm just speaking about the glue on the tape,if the epoxy did'nt reach the blank.
  7. STxFisherman
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    I did use the thin masking tape to make four arbors about 1/2 inch each. I cut a 1/4 inch groove in each of the masking tape arbors. I then put epoxy all over the blank, tape, grooves so that there would be a solid fill of epoxy beneath the reel seat.

    Thanks for the info Capt. G ... makes me feel much better! I thnk I'll let the reel seat cure for 48 hours.
  8. Capt. G
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    BTW, I just wanted to clearify that I do not think my way is the only way, or best way. Doing it by the "Bible" (Dale Clemens books) , which is the way most probably do it, is to sand and prep. I will second what LendAFish said--the blank need to be completely clean and free of oils, residue.
    I just wanted to state what has been my experience, and not to discourage a first time builder before before a problem even occurs.
    It is like I tell my employees "There are three ways to do things. My way. My Way. and MY WAY". But Ya'll can do whatever floats your boat.
  9. flamekeeper
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    That is'nt coming apart..
  10. blurryone
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    The fiberglass drywall tape works really well. It is basically meshed fiberglass approximately 2 inches wide and is really nice because it adheres nicely to the blank and epoxy will flow all the way down to the blank so no need for grooves or having to pick it out from the reel seat. Home depot and most large hardware stores carry the stuff. I got mine from acidrod.com. Hope this helps.

    B1
  11. STxFisherman
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    I was advised by a very experienced local rod builder to cut grooves in the masking tape to allow the epoxy to flow throughout the chamber that you create with the reel seat so that you will not have pockets of air. As you push the reel seat over the masking tape arbors, the pressure that you apply towards the butt will allow the epoxy to flow up through the grooves towards the direction of the tip. It made sense to me....
  12. 1:11
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    Good idea Gene, acidrod.com sells it? If thats the case, must be lots of guys using it. Sounds like a great idea in theory. Seems like it would create a glass rebar structure within the real seat and allowing the glue to really flow in and fill the seat. Are you using three bands of glass? How wide is the glass? Is it one sheet the length of the seat or several rows applied like the masking tape? Thanks.

    [​IMG]
    heres one for you blurryone
  13. blurryone
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    Heya Jason,
    Nice pic bro man POM is awesome.
    I usually lay 3 bands of the drywall fiber tape and that was my thinking too that the rod bond with the fiber tape creates a rebar structure. I also use the tape for the butt cap if necessary just gotta use some gloves if you use the fiberglass tape at length becuz the slivers in the hand can be a true annoyance.

    b1
  14. 1:11
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    thanks for that tip, i will make sure to use gloves from the start. Rod building has got to be hazardous to the health. I remember when i used to build alot of rods, i used to go thru gallons of acetone, and always had that getting on me, and epoxy, and flex coat. Lets not get into the harzard of striping guides and handles, inhalation of resins and glass. we should get paid more. LOL
  15. cold waters
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    my two cents is to hell with the making tape all together.... spend the 3 dollars and get graphite arbors!!! ream them to size and epoxy them to the blank. then epoxy the RS to the arbors... very inexpensive, very sensitive and the arbor wont break down over time.
  16. Comedie
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    Your connection is still pure epoxy. And if you play with those 'graphite' arbors some, you might note a few things. What they really are, are expanded urethane with graphite dust added. There is a highend foamed graphite, but it is not in rodmaking that I've seen and is rather expensive stuff.

    And now, think about what graphite powder is added to plastics for. It is to resist UV, harden the surface, and make more slippery. That make 'more slippery' part should raise an eyebrow. Because the arbors are rough, it isn't really a problem adhering, but the graphite isn't helping anything there.

    It's a case of the word 'graphite' being misinterpreted. BTW,,, graphite reel seats are thermoplatic with graphite powder added to the mix as well. It yields a more durable and cleanable surface, but that is all. Structurally, it is just a thermoplastic.

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