Results 1 to 10 of 29
Thread: Step X Step G-Urushi Tutorial
May-22-2012, 11:16 PM #1
Step X Step G-Urushi Tutorial
While no veneer can match the luster, and depth of real shell pieces, thick abalone can be a PITA to sand (Just ask Salty Dawg).
BassManDan also pointed out that some of our BD members may not have access to the plethora of shells that one that lives near the seashore has.
So, I have been working on a sort of "reverse" or "Windows" Urushi.
This uses veneer that anyone can source. The problem with using veneer is that most types can not be sanded much before they become destroyed.
Since veneer is not cheap, I came up with a way to leave the ab/shell out of the sanding equation.
I will hit every step, with a pic, or explanation, or both.
This is 日本海福井産天然鮑 (Japanese wild abalone). Even the outside of these shells are beautiful...but I am glad I do not have to sand this one.
I just thought I would show you what the shell looks like.
First step. Clean blank with DNA or other . Next, I mixed Bullard white pearl with epoxy, and simply spun on the blank. Feel free to substitute materials/colors along the way.
Next, I selected some paper thin veneer I purchased at Acidrod.communist.
I actually like the transparent stuff better, but went thru four sheets of this this month, and I only have the black backed stuff. If I was using the transparent, I might have mixed in some Red Flash, or Blue Dragon to my epoxy, for contrast.
Cut some pieces of the veneer, and tack on the rod when the epoxy becomes tacky. You can also wait for the base to dry, and simply superglue it on, but setting it in the tacky epoxy sets the veneer "in" the epoxy, and keeps it as low in the matrix as possible.
Regardless of how you glue the veneer on, you will have some edges that stick up. I take #80 mono, and wrap it over the entire surface, and let it dry. Then you can pull the mono off, easily.
Now, the veneer "patches" are flush to the blank, and you also have some nice dermal ridges that you can use for texture, or pattern. In this case, I did not.
Next , you put a layer of thread/rod epoxy over the entire area. Let dry, and do not sand. Now there is only one thin layer of epoxy over the veneer, and if you hit it with sandpaper, you may fark it up.
Step next is to mix some bullard silver and pearl pigments...btw, can you see that eagle with the bent beak staring at me, and Jimmy Hoffa off to the side?
Fill in the gaps between the ab patches. Let dry.
Put a layer of rod finish over the entire area.
Sand with #400 . The ab patches now have two layers of clear over them...but you can see where I over sanded in one spot...taking it almost down to the veneer. I blame that on YT Addict, for distracting me telepathically, with gibberish.
Clean away the dust, and wipe down with DNA or equivalent (as you will now be adding paint and stuff)
From here , you can pretty much add whatever you want. This rod is for a bass angler , who does some Ninja exploits, so I added some glow paint, and some black Urushi paint/lacquer.
I brushed this on with a purple disposable Flex Coat brush...with no particular pattern in mind.
Let dry, then coat with clear rod finish.
Clean with DNA.
This is the top layer...I put on black lacquer, for shading/contrast of the lower layers.
Let dry, then top coat with clear.
Next, is the final sanding...I took off most of the previous layer of black...to reveal some wavy , black highlighted green and silver around the ab patches.
If you like it, then you are done...one final top coat of clear.
And here it be...
With some coated foregrippage, and handleage.
Oh, did I mention it glows in the dark?
May-22-2012, 11:29 PM #2
awesome readmakohunterz out
May-22-2012, 11:30 PM #3Captain
- Join Date
- Miami, FL USA
Awesome tutorial Capt G. I definitely have to give this a try.
May-22-2012, 11:31 PM #4
That one (like all the others) is a winner.Don't be afraid of failing, it's the only way you will know what success is
May-22-2012, 11:32 PM #5
I used to only have a 9 on my hip due to the clown down the street that jacked an SL500 & got busted 2 days ago and is now cruising free in the hood. But I now have the required tools and elements within reach to accomplish something halfway close to this, and will soon be Action Jackson, in a G manner. Thank you for the teeps.
May-23-2012, 12:13 AM #6Captain
- Join Date
- Santa Ana, CA
Thanks for the step by step. Awesome...
May-23-2012, 12:38 AM #7
cool trick using the mono to hold it down. the result folks have gotten with your method, yourself included are stellar, i gotta try it, eventually. Thanks for sharing that, stayed tuned, im sure MUDWHORE will have a DVD on it by next week.
May-23-2012, 02:00 AM #8
Great tutorial G.
May-23-2012, 02:10 AM #9
That looks great and even easy enough for us wannabes to accomplish
I can now cancel the ACME "ab building" kit I saw on the shopping channel
May-23-2012, 05:16 AM #10
Thanks so much for the tutorial
By GARR0 in forum Boating DiscussionReplies: 7Last Post: Oct-31-2011, 08:04 PM
By JTrelikes in forum Rod BuildingReplies: 46Last Post: Dec-20-2010, 10:29 AM
By JTrelikes in forum Rod BuildingReplies: 7Last Post: Dec-19-2010, 10:22 PM
By GiantSoup in forum Fishing Tutorials by MembersReplies: 42Last Post: Aug-01-2009, 07:34 AM