Reel seat help.

[socalkid]

Hello,

Ive used masking tape for my reel arbors on light conventional rods in the past. Can I use masking tape for a 30lbs surf rod? Ive heard people use fiberglass drywall tape, would that work better then masking tape? Last, I see people building conventional rods with the reel seats that are down locking and up locking. Any benefits or negatives of either way?

Thanks,

Chris

[Johnlgarrison]

I have been building rods for 40 years and have always used plain old masking tape.

[BakerStBobby2]

Masking tape for trout rods to cow tuna sticks---no problem. Reel seat direction is a personal thing IMO. Some may give reasons why they like it one way or the other....I'd like to see what the reasons why they do it upside-down myself.
Bobby~

[Matt_e]

I prefer the drywall tape. Since it looks like netting, the epoxy goes all the way through it for a stronger connection IMO.

[Capt Richie]

Masking tape..I make three arbors one front , back & center..I use U40 Rod Bond never have had a problem form 8lb to 80 lb class rods..

[BakerStBobby2]

Originally Posted by Matt_e

I prefer the drywall tape. Since it looks like netting, the epoxy goes all the way through it for a stronger connection IMO.

I'd agree with the fact that with the dry wall tape's mesh, the epoxy will seep in completely and would be a stronger deal. However, masking tape is PLENTY strong enough for every rod application I've used so far. Classic Coat Vertical Reel Seat Epoxy drys like concrete, so there is no issue no failures I've seen.
Is the dry wall tape much more money than masking tape? Just curious...
Bobby~

[Mark@AcidRod]

The tape has zero to do with the bonding strength. All it does is serve as a bushing/shim to center the reel seat on the blank. The bond from blank to seat is BETWEEN the tape bushings, not on them. I use more bushings than Richie mentions though. I space the bushings about 3/4" apart and usually end up with 4-5 on the average salt seat. If I'm using a graphite seat, I usually try and get a tape bushing under it right where the reel clamp will go if one's to be used. Not that I've ever crushed a seat with a clamp, but it makes me feel like I've eliminated that possibility. The only downside that I'm aware of to using masking tape is if you don't "seal" the outside edges of the bushings with epoxy. If for whatever reason the rod should spend any amount of time under water and the edges AREN'T sealed, the tape will absorb water and eventually break down. If you coat the outside edges of your outer bushings, you eliminate that possibility.

There are a lot of fans of mesh tape bushings for the very reason mentioned above, however if you think you're going to wrap a bushing out of mesh tape, then simply pour epoxy on it to seep through, you're going to have a failure. You need to wrap the mesh tape bushing to size, the UN-wrap it and start applying epoxy (paste is much better) as you RE-wrap it to make sure the epoxy goes all the way to the blank. It's slow, it's messy, and at the end of the day, I doubt it's any stronger than a properly installed seat on masking tape bushings. We sell mesh tape and will continue to as long as there's a demand. BTW Bobby, cost VS masking tape is probably a wash...

You missed another option BTW... Foam arbors are the bomb, but take some extra tools (pilot drills & reamers) to install. If you don't already have the $50 worth of tools to fit them, it's probably not worth tooling up for unless you plan to build a lot more rods on foam arbors down the road.

Uplock VS downlock? You might start an arguement there... I do most of my heavier casting rods with the seat installed down locking, just because it feels better in my hand than a handfull of aluminum threads and knurled lock nuts when I'm casting. All my hand touches during casting is Hypalon and a nice smooth hood. Some will argue that having the "fixed" hood in the front (up-locking) will prevent the lock rings from coming loose on a big fish... That never happened to me, but then I lock my rings down tight. Doc might tell you that mine don't come loose because I never catch anything. Whatever... At least I'm comfortable doing it! lol

[socalkid]

Hello,

Masking tape it is. I think I'm going with down locking. Thanks for the help boys!

Out,

Chris

[bass_blaster]

I'm glad I read this thread. The first couple rods I did were with masking tape bushings and so far they've held up just fine. My most recent 6 or 7 rods have all had fiberglass mesh tape though. (I read somewhere that it's better/stronger but I can't remember where).

What I did was make the bushing to size and then use my epoxy heavily so that it did(or i thought it did) soak all the way through the tape to the rod. Basically I would apply epoxy and push it through with my brush or whatever i was using and keep the rod rotating. when that would seep through, I would keep adding more and more until it was thick on the surface. Once at that point, I would then put some on the inside of the reel seat and apply that way.

Fuji Pedler(or anybody), does that sound like a failure in progress? So far most of my rods to this point have been for family and myself but I don't want a bunch of P.O.S. rods with my name on them regardless. I've used all my rods and caught some decent fish on some and no failures yet but I've only been at it for 7-8 months. Please let me know if you think my way of doing is sucks so I can change ASAP.

[Matt_e]

I measure the thickness, cut the appropriate length, then use a hot glue gun to attach the tape to the blank (scuffed with fine sandpaper). I use 30 minute epoxy, and apply a THIN layer between each wrap, and a fairly thick layer when I slide the seat onto the tape. I used to use masking, but like Mark said, you have to protect the ends of the masking tape. I've never had an issue with the mesh if it's done right.

I also agree with Mark on the foam arbors. I keep losing my reamers, so I usually don't bother with foam. Once I get my garage finished, I just might start to bother again!