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Thread: What's this about?
Aug-16-2010, 02:31 PM #111
Make sure you let us know the fix. All of us are sure it is our diagnosis.If you stay on a boat long enough you are bound to catch a fish!
Aug-21-2010, 09:57 PM #112Skipper
- Boat Name
- Join Date
- east la Jackson high
any news on the fix, or was it to stupid to post
Aug-21-2010, 11:41 PM #113
Aug-22-2010, 08:00 AM #114
Don't feel bad, my boat has been in the shop since June... and I haven't really missed it...
Aug-28-2010, 03:14 PM #115
you need the tool to align any motor right to outdrives
the best tool is the new mercury one that actually bolts up
the original bar is good but you better now how to read the grease marks or your going to Fuck things up big time
I do not have the time to read 8 pages today but i will do it tomorrow at the jetski races (jet effect)i plan on attending
i have no idea what motors you have
best bet is that if carbed, your carbs are not 100% cleaned, or seated right
anytime a motor hunts for rpms, you have an air leak, or fuel leak
Aug-29-2010, 02:21 AM #116
this is going to give me a headache
(sorry FB style kids)
watch and learn
Aug-29-2010, 03:17 AM #117
THIS IS E-Z
twin Volvo 350's and 280SP outdrives
Dr. D man, carbed non- carbed? that tells me 85% problem
my cruise rpm of 3400 down to about 2000
u have tabs, use them, stay on plane, never ever drop RPM's on water unless coming into port
(sorry for the D I C K move)
starboard engine / outdrive wasn't performing like normal and seemed to be cavitating with variable rpms
that will happen crossing any wake with any boat (unless 45Ft or more)
your crossing wake not hard enough with a SKIPPY (pounders as i call them, owned a 78 (flybridge), from 79-84 when a kid, and still remeber a rouge wave(off Catalina Is, little south chasin Marlin) at 5, was strapped to the head, by the old man.
So I did just about everything could to eliminate what seemed to be cavitation. In neutral, the engine would run fine. In gear, the engine would be inconsistent in rpms and wouldn't run like the port engine. So I had to cruise at about 1200 rpms over towards the San Mateo Kelp. With a mile to go, I tried it again, and it ran as it should have, back up to 3400 rpms and all was fine. And after spending hours there fishing on the hook, we decided to head on back. Both engines ran perfect for the 8 mile return trip to Dana Point harbor, then upon backing down to 1200 - 1000 rpms on entering the harbor, the starboard engine started again, then dropped rpms and shut down. I started it back up and it ran with inconsistent rpms again, and I put it back in the temp slip I have been renting for the time being.
UHM, you mean on water you did?
you check your water/fuel seps (separators) hence water then fuel people here
This is called HUNTING, for a CARB motor thats an air/fuel leak
on a EFI/MPI its more likey a sensor, but you always go from fuel hose on tank forward
Any motor Car or Marine motor will always run perfect in neutral, NO LOAD
I pulled the engines to pull my fuel tanks and put in a new main tank, then reinstalled the engines. I've used the boat for a couple similar trips between today and the new fuel tank work without issue, and that's why this is puzzling
UGHH, fiber tanks?
What RPM, how hard (she always says this, the boat guys, hahhaha)
you pinch a fuel line?
you run your lines above the fitting??
In my book, thats a strike for me to show up on boat ( you only get 3, GO PADRES
Anyone ever experienced something like this and understand what's going on here, or have anything to offer please?
How much $ do you have in your pocket?
I'm a barter guy not a cash whore
mechanical fuel pump, which I rebuilt (new diaphram)
Strike numero 2!!!!!!
nEVER, nEVER EVER EVER rebuild boat fuel systems! your going to build a Bomb
Sorry David, not picking points, trying to teach the smart here and have a PLEASURE BOAT, not a freaking HEADACHE BOAT
I think you could add electric/distributor issue with some h20 to the list
YAR! saltwater ( or by the salt dry/trailer docked) the screens in the dizzy (distributor) will always always clogg. check it out kids! PLEASE CHECK KABOOM!
yes thats one part diffenerrebt then cars vs marine motors, the dizzy (but some CHEVY newer motors have them, look, shhhhhhhhh)
Make sure you vents for the fuel tanks are clear
run on a new AUX, fuel lines and all (6 gallon i like, cuz you can run WOT for 30 mins on any boat)
I hire a pro.... pretty much what most all of us here do I believe
Like i said before, how much money u got?
there is major difference between a mechanic vs a technician
I think one douche bag on here though here was a Honda MECH , and now he is asking for feedback on a motor (HAhahahahahahaha) DOUCHE, sorry bro, u r
I've never had a spun prop, but if it was spun, would it allow me to run full speed after being spun???
Only on an outdrive/outboard
straight shaft HELL NO, unless u sheard a key, but that would make your balls tingle standing up at at any spedd, including an idle
Sorry kids, im the biggest azz u met( i nota fan of guns, we were born with fist's use them guys, but i will use them corectly)
Rick, I don't think a spun prop would cause the engine to shut down ... correct me if I'm wrong!
yep, only a locked drive or a tangled drive (hence LOCKED)
I have had a spun prop and you can't get the RPMs up at all
Try it reverse!!!! the Spun, not cavitation
CAVITATION = Under da H2O
VENTILATION = Above da H2O
believe this is just a minor fuel filter issue
really???? not that i'm a DICK, but no other fuel tank u used!!!!!
Yeah, it's a frustrating process of elimination.....
hahhahaha, there is only 5
I just got off the phone with the mechanic who rebuilt the starboard engine and he said to swap the fuel pumps between engines and install a fuel pressure gauge between the fuel line and carb, then run it again. I think I will recheck the fuel filter, do as he suggests, and check the timing too.
Get a MASTER CERTIFIED TECH, not a MECH (once again D I C K)
TECH's know the shit by the back of a hand (RODBOLT Yami/Suzi MASTER, my grandfather, no bloodline, except turning wrenches blood)
hey, a NEW AUX fuel tank would have solved that!
Did you clamp them or just use the barb?
double clamps guys not 1!
Freaking take a platics ice bag, unscrew the gas cap, take that ice bag, stick it on the cap underneth, screw it down
that checks your vent, and vapor lock, gas boils at what temp???/ 186
I'm going to drop in a new coil
more $ out of your pocket!!! F U C
use a good volt/Ohm meter
check cold from both poles
use a hair dryier for 10 mins, heating the coil up,find a TECH!
ANYBODY WANT MORE?????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????
Aug-29-2010, 05:10 AM #118
Have you checked the other end? The exhast.jim and josh
Aug-29-2010, 01:23 PM #119
To answer your questions: problem is to starboard engine only under load after warming up, carbed (Rochester Quads), solid state distributors, mech fuel pumps are original (my mistake on any rebuilding) and both are working fine (swapped each to other engine), fuel lines all new and perfect, fuel vent lines no problems, check and clear fuel water seperators each use w/o issue, no spun prop....
I recently measured voltage both sides of both coils and found a discrepancy with starboard voltage on the negative post at 1/2 of the voltage of the port engine's neg post voltage.... go figure?
I will have a qualified tech join me on the water soon to hopefully put this matter to rest. I just haven't had a moment between work and a recent family vacation yet to get it done.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Last edited by Outlawman; Aug-29-2010 at 01:26 PM.
Aug-29-2010, 02:13 PM #120
I just read this post for the first time. I keep hoping you would have had fixed the problem. I am a great problem solver in my trade and when I had my shop would trouble shoot for other guys and places I once had worked. Cars, motorcycles, boats and lawn mowers. I'm dead. I hope you get er fixed soon.